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i remember the dc cable to the inverter is at least 8g

the fridge's full load amp is specified as 6.5A new fridges made today likely will be more energy efficient

Thanks for your input. Another question is how to make sure the new fridge can be powered by the Cobra 1000w inverter before buying.

do you know if the home Depot delivery and installation service could cover this?

Thanks. I thought Comodave took the cabin door off.

The salon has a sliding door on the starboard. Removing the door is much easier than removing a window pane. It allows the fridge in in a flat posture. The next challenge is to move it down to the galley via a three step stair. The space between the helm station and the kitchen cabinet is too...

The fridge in the galley is a Whirlpool residential model powered by a dedicated Cobra 1000w inverter. The fridge was made in 2008 and the model has been discontinued. the salon layout is shown below, in this type of boat, is the fridge usually transported inside through the forward window by...

Can you renew the putty without separating the strain basket from the basin?

I have a countersink bit from the bosch kit but it does not have size marking. does this work or should I use specific size countersink bit?

is there a pilot hole / countersink size chart for machine screws? i remember the pilot hole size should be nominal diameter, so that is 3/16" for #10 and 1/4" for a 1/4" (#14) machine screw?

i just measured the beam again, its thickness is 2-1/4" which works better? #8 x1-3/4" flat head screws or #8 x 2" here is a pilot hole size guideline for wood screws i found online. the beam should be hard wood, so I'd use a 1/8 straight bit

the lock nut on the right basin is rusted. is it necessary to remove the rust using a boeshield rust remover? on the plumber putty, do you mean to apply some plumber caulk to fill in along the edge of the strainer basket?

if I have to work on it, I'd swap the double basin to a custom single basin, so I only need worry about adding one hose from strainer to the existing p trap. removing the p trap ups the difficulty level while losing some benefits as mentioned in above posts

is this the correct flow: 1. fill glue, 2. wait for a day, 3. clamp and drill two pilot holes, install screws in step 3, is countersink really necessary? where exactly would you place the two holes?

Thanks. the hair snake is what I just used. so the pvc part is not necessary. instead, a single hose should be used from the drain fitting to the seacock. it's still way above my head. the space is so narrow, how did someone manage to get in there working the hose onto the seacock?

the whole assembly is shown below the elbow pipe may be soldered or welded to the strainer fittings. this elbow pipe seems custom built. if I have to cut them open, I'd have to custom build the same. looking for the correct parts I think is not easy, not to mention making and soldering the pipe

I just cleaned the gunk using a plastic dredging tool. what are the hazards in the second photo?

I saw black mosses grown under the sink drain strainer in the kitchen. I want to use a plastic snake to clean those out, so removing the strainer would make this easier. the strainer seems to be held in place by a locknut from below, and some sealant. the looks of the locknut and drain pipe...

Two screws from top, two from bottom, forming a cross patten? The beam thickness is about 2", so #10 7/8" screws should be good? I planned to install just one 1/4" x 2 1/2" flat head machine screws, with a 1/4 x 1 1/4 fender washer and a 1/4 nyloc nut from bottom. Does this achieve the same...

I have total boat resin and hardener, it is similar to the west system product except a different volume ratio required. Do you use thickened or unthickened epoxy for this?

How does the hole stop the crack?

Thanks. Single screw allows more room for moving around.

Thanks. marinehowto advertised at the end of the article a PRO-HST crimper that is tested to reach a high tensile strength without squashing the terminal. I decided not to go to that standard, simply because I don't have a lot of terminals to do.

after taking the connection fitting apart, I see why it's not conductive and the ohm meter has no reading. the battery volt is 13.5V. using a Fluke 325, i got the current on the er lights circuit is 5.6A. the actual total watt is 75w, higher than the labeled 66w (22w x 3), or the fluke 325...

I didn't quite get it here. my Prolume circling daylight (model fc8t9dl) should work in the same way (also have a filament inside) as this fluorescent light shown in that video. why is that fluorescent conductive when the switch is off?