When I tried to remove my zincs for replacement the copper cap broke off the zinc.
leaving the zinc in the engine...how do you get it out....any suggestions
thanks
I have 2 anode locations on my Mainship that problematic.
In both the issue seems to be minimal clearance around the rod portion close to the plug.
I have started two oeactices that seem to help.
I coat a narrow band around the anode rod in the liw clearance area to minimize / delay corrosion
I remove and inspect the anode more frequently. The anode doesn't need replacement that often but it gives me a chance to vlean off tbe corrosion products and recoat the band if necessary.
Together they have eliminated broken anodes remaining in the resoective HEs
For clarification I am in fresh water and use alum amodes but above should help any material.
I have 2 anode locations on my Mainship that problematic.
In both the issue seems to be minimal clearance around the rod portion close to the plug.
I have started two oeactices that seem to help.
I coat a narrow band around the anode rod in the liw clearance area to minimize / delay corrosion
I remove and inspect the anode more frequently. The anode doesn't need replacement that often but it gives me a chance to vlean off tbe corrosion products and recoat the band if necessary.
Together they have eliminated broken anodes remaining in the resoective HEs
For clarification I am in fresh water and use alum amodes but above should help any material.
Still not sure of exactly where you are putting "nail polish" but any dielectric material between the anode and the heat exchanger body will inhibit the galvanic action that is the purpose of the anode. The more complete that barrier, the longer your anodes will last because they can't corrode as they were designed to do.
Removong the anode rod from the plug is not the issue I have and I don't think thats what started this part of the discussion.I think you could put a waterproof sealer like pipe dope on the threads of the brass-bronze end where the anode itself screws into the brass-bronze fitting. I will try it and check it with an ohm meter to verify it has low ohms. I buy the anodes and screw them into the bronze-brass fitting which screws into the HE.
Doing that may help get it apart without having to fuss with it when replacing the anode.
I think you could put a waterproof sealer like pipe dope on the threads of the brass-bronze end where the anode itself screws into the brass-bronze fitting. I will try it and check it with an ohm meter to verify it has low ohms. I buy the anodes and screw them into the bronze-brass fitting which screws into the HE.
Doing that may help get it apart without having to fuss with it when replacing the anode.
I think you could put a waterproof sealer like pipe dope on the threads of the brass-bronze end where the anode itself screws into the brass-bronze fitting. I will try it and check it with an ohm meter to verify it has low ohms. I buy the anodes and screw them into the bronze-brass fitting which screws into the HE.
Doing that may help get it apart without having to fuss with it when replacing the anode.
+1We change to all aluminum on Hobo ~4 years ago. We go back and forth from salt to brackish. We had a hard time finding the pencil anodes for the engine but someone posted about Performance Metals here. Thank you! The engine anode has a steel rod core. I haven’t had the issue with the anode breaking off in the heat exchanger since.
https://performancemetals.com/colle...ce-5-complete-aluminum-pencil-anode-with-plug