Willard Fales interior wood

[Rivertrader]

The interior on both the 1970s vintage Fales and Willard 30& 32s seem to be the same from the pics I've seen on this forum. I have sanded and stripped where necessary the drawer fronts. I was told they were mahogany but don't really know. The handles would not clean up with buffing wheel and cleaner so resorted to 320 sand paper and or fine wire brush. They appear to be brass not sure if plated or solid. What wood treatment have those of you with Willard or Fales 30 or 32s used? Oil or varnish etc? Only looking for nice low upkeep interior not showroom.These photos were prior to removal.

Thanks John

 

[Nomad Willy]

I mix an oil finish. Hardly done any interior work though. My wife made a new wood door where there was just a hole and she finished it w McClosky's Spar varnish. A high oil high gloss tung oil varnish. The high oil part means it's more flexible and I think easier to apply. It brushes on nicely.

The rest of our interior is teak and the oil I mixed for the cap rail in Alaska we used in the interior. Perhaps w a little more turpentine. It's slightly sticky for a few weeks but never transfers to your clothes or body. The mix is:
20% raw Linseed Oil 20%
10% McClosky's Spar Varnish
20% kerosene
60% Turpentine
You can use more kerosene in the first coats for penetration. Boiled Linseed oil to make it less sticky. And more varnish for more build. I've always tried to shoot for no build.
The smell of the Turpentine is very strong so choose a day where you can open the windows.
This oil can only be applied to wood that has the ability to soak up the oil. If it's been varnished or otherwise coated w a build finish something else will need to be found. Or you'll need to "wood down" or sand off the old finish.
Any non oil finish can have adhesion problems w the teak and looking at your pics it looks like teak to me.

 

[Rivertrader]

Thanks Manyboats. I've sanded off old finish guess I'll do a test on inside of drawer. Trying to lighten it up a bit.

 

[RT Firefly]

110% ?

 

[rwidman]

Wood finishing is not specific to a brand of boat so if you want to refinish wood, I suggest reading up on wood or furniture refinishing.

If you can't make the hardware look nice, go to a home center and pick out replacements. Sometimes a change in style will modernize the look.

The caution for handles, pulls, etc. on a boat is to not use anything that might catch on clothing or body parts if you are thrown against it. Rounded and smooth would be the key.

 

[Moonstruck]

I try to stay away from the home hardware stores for hardware on a boat. Their hardware items are usually made from cast zamac or some other "pot" metal and thinly plated. The finish will usually deteriorate pretty quickly. A good quality hardware is cheaper in the long run.

 

[rwidman]

I try to stay away from the home hardware stores for hardware on a boat. Their hardware items are usually made from cast zamac or some other "pot" metal and thinly plated. The finish will usually deteriorate pretty quickly. A good quality hardware is cheaper in the long run.

Yes, buy the good stuff.

 

[Pack Mule]

Hey Eric that's quite a mix . I used to do a 3/2/1 mix with varnish , turpentine and linseed oil . Never tried adding kerosene to the mix , but I must say I like the look of your finish . I have added bees wax before just because somebody suggested it , not sure what I did for the mix .

 

[Nomad Willy]

Marty,
I learned about the Kerosene in one of Pete Culler's books. He recommends it for an aid to steam bending or just bending w kerosene. Soak the wood overnight in Kerosene he says. Supposed to be the best penetrant. He says it helps (as an additive) to drive the oil (or wood preservative or?) into the wood. He says w a new build the whole hull should be treated w kerosene ... and perhaps w pine tar mixed in. Good book ... it's title .. "Skiffs and Schooners".

I arrived at the mix above as nothing out of a can would work on our cap rail in Alaska. Oh ..... I forgot one ingredient of the mix ... Tea Tree oil. It's very expensive but is a very good for anti mold, fungus and mildew. Isn't there an oil finish for furniture in little yellow .. oh yea .. MinWax. Is that bee wax?

 

[Xsbank]

Le Tonkinoise Varnish, ONLY linseed oil and tung oil, no gruesome smell and no solvents to keep you outside or make you use a respirator, builds up well and is uv resistent. Dries overnight or sooner depending upon temperature and humidity.
Sea-Fin oil works well if you like recoating, my friend pretty much covers the wood on his Bavaria with it.

 

[Rivertrader]

Thanks everyone. WesK I thought those that had the same model might know the type wood used. Exterior is teak for sure inside I will have to go to wood working store in town.
The wood inside looks much better with just a light sanding. I am trying to use old hardware where ever possible on interior.I got my prop and shaft back from Wilmington today so I suppose the less cosmetic important work will start again. Thanks again for all your comments.

John

 

[Nomad Willy]

Xbank,
I tried Sea Fin from Dalys in Seattle. Got good reviews form many in Wa but wouldn't last much more than a month in SE. And worse yet it produced build. May as well varnish then.

Trader,
Sand on the wood some even behiend the front of a drawer. You should be able to detect the oilyness in the duff from sanding ... if it's teak. My Willard has a great deal more teak that any other Willard I've seen. Don't know why. One would suspect a PO but it looks factory done to me. Could have been a special order or built for a local boat show to boost orders ?? I'll try a pic w the i-pad as I'm going to the boat. it's snowing but I've got my old car.

 

[rwidman]

Thanks everyone. WesK I thought those that had the same model might know the type wood used. Exterior is teak for sure inside I will have to go to wood working store in town.
The wood inside looks much better with just a light sanding. I am trying to use old hardware where ever possible on interior.I got my prop and shaft back from Wilmington today so I suppose the less cosmetic important work will start again. Thanks again for all your comments.

John

Take one of your drawer fronts to a good lumberyard, not a home center. People there can tell you the species of wood and help you with refinishing advice.

It would not be unknown for a manufacturer to change the species of wood used for the interior of a boat, either from year to year or as an option for the buyer. The early models of my boat used teak, later it was changed to mahogany.

 

[Nomad Willy]

WesK,
The manufacturers go through wood species like women go through hair styles. In the 50's it was mahogany. Everything was mahogany. In the 70's it was teak. The word teak was most often used w a bit of reverence and repeated in conversation as often as possible. Fales was marketing a rip off Willard and it was the early 70's when teak was the rage. If Fales used mahogany they would be advertising their boat was a cheap rip off and I can't imagine them doing that. I think it's teak.

Your lumberyard idea is a good one but there are lumberyards and there are lumberyards. Most now days just sell chip board and hemlock studs. They may even say teak what? A furniture place may work. But if Trader sans a bit on the wood he'll notice the oiliness almost right away. Sand a little more Trader and feel the duff. If the duff is like mahogany it isn't teak.

 

[rwidman]

And that's why I said "good" lumber yard. Nearly every city will have one where you can purchase hardwood lumber in many species and they will have knowledgeable staff to assist the customer.


It's good to know where these places are when it comes time to make repairs or additions.

 

[Rivertrader]

Thanks Wes & Eric I have 1 in the truck.

John

 

[Nomad Willy]

WesK,
In the west .. "Nearly every city will have one" .. isn't so true.