Stuck anode

[dhays]

It finally happened to me. When removing the cap, the anode unscrewed from the cap and is stuck in the aftercooler. Any clues and tips for getting it out?

 

[rgano]

There are a few options. One I like was suggested here long time ago. You take one of the anode caps and grind off all the threads so that you can screw it onto the anode without the sides of the cap contacting the anode well's threads. Then try to talk the anode into releasing its grip by tapping on the end of the modified cap and twisting it a bit.

I have a rather large anode in my intercooler which gave me heck one time. After I fished it out, I elected to use a smaller anode seated in a bushing threaded into the anode well. If the anode gets struck when I try to remove it on my 90-day inspection routine, I just unscrew the whole bushing, anode and all. I don't worry about the another being a bit smaller than the original because it is replaced frequently, and the area it sits in is always dry when the engine is shut down.

 

[Greg QS]

Some times all you can do is us a drift pin and push it in. disassemble the pipe to remove loose part.
You can drill a hole in the anode and install a screw to Grip the old anode and use pliers to encourage it out.

 

[SteveK]

The anode is supposed to melt away eventually. As long as there is anode it is protecting? Why not screw the cap back on and check it monthly?

I do like the suggesting for filing down the threads.

 

[dhays]

Thanks. I brought a spare cap home from the boat and will try grinding the threads and give that a try. I like the idea of using a bushing and a smaller anode also.

Most of the time, my problem is getting the old anode out of the cap. I have had to bring them home and soak them in Muriatic acid so I can reuse them relatively often.

Punching the anode into the aftercooler may be a last resort. An anode doesn't dissolve. It undergoes galvanic corrosion but that only works is it has a good electrical connection to the less reactive metal. If the anode is just bouncing around inside the aftercooler or heat exchanger, it isn't likely to have a good enough contact with the surrounding structure to experience the galvanic corrosion. So, I doubt it would fade away over time.

 

[Comodave]

I have done the grinding the threads off an old cap. Screwed it onto the old anode and pulled the old anode out. Worked like a charm. On the new anodes I used some thread lock. Checked the connection with an ohm meter and it looked good.

 

[SteveK]

Dave I meant to say when grounded, that is why I would screw the cap on and wait until it dissolves enough to come out.

 

[dhays]

Dave I meant to say when grounded, that is why I would screw the cap on and wait until it dissolves enough to come out.

Ah I see. Yeah, in other words if the anode is continuing to protect the aftercooler, let it continue to do so until it has been reduced enough to come out or it is a small piece to be just punched in.

 

[dhays]

Success!

I took a spare cap and ground off the threads. Would have been easier if I had a bench grinder, but I got done.

I was able to thread it onto the anode and pull it out with vice grips.

Thank you again TF.

 

[chanprr]

I usually toss the caps. I use all new.
Before inserting a new anode and cap, I put some super glue on the threads of the anode before screwing it onto the cap. Never had a problem leaving remnants of any anode behind.

 

[dhays]

I usually toss the caps. I use all new.
Before inserting a new anode and cap, I put some super glue on the threads of the anode before screwing it onto the cap. Never had a problem leaving remnants of any anode behind.

Definitely an option. I like to reuse the caps when possible simply because I'm cheap.

 

[chanprr]

Definitely an option. I like to reuse the caps when possible simply because I'm cheap.

No worries there, Dave!!