It’s always amazed me that as important as painting and varnishing is to boats it’s one of the biggest sources of confusion and frustration. If a owner will invest the time to learn the basics there aren’t too many jobs more gratifying than looking at your work afterwards. Few things bring more admiration from other owners and at the same time add more value to your vessel. So as a former yacht painter and a guy who ran two yard paint shops I think it’s sad to hear people painting teak and nice wood trim just because it’s too much trouble. You know right up the sixties the USN trained deck crews in how to brush paint but these days they usually hire contractors to do what was once a crews job. I can’t tell you how many good looking owner painted boats Ive seen that were owned by ex navy.
Anyway got that off my chest now what about ‘ polyurethane vs Enamel ‘. The answer is none as polyurethanes are enamels. Enamel really only means a high or semi-gloss top coat. Straight up long oil based Alkyd paints are generally old school these days but the paint chemists now combine alkyd resins with polyurethanes to provide a more wear resistant coating. These are one part and unlike coatings such as Awlgrip, Interthane or Imron which are not technically paints ( pigment solids, resins, driers & volatiles that cure by drying ). Two part catalytic coatings such as this use an activator to initiate polymerization and are a true plastic not a paint. They are heavy in isocyanates which are neuro toxins and very harmful to living things.
Enamels like Brightsides are really about the same as the old Inter-Poly, Monopoxy etc.. When I worked as a field Tech Rep for Sherwin Williams I got my fill of marketing schemes, a good grasp of paint chemistry and as a painter ran around putting out fires until I got burned out ( no pun ).From what I can tell Brightsides is a pretty good product but not revolutionary. They’ve tweaked the formula with some leveling agents and volatiles to make it easier to handle, and colors of course, but it handles about the same. They recommend thinner coats roughly 1.5 mils but I’m sure it’s because the special leveling agents that promote flow can also encourage curtains or runs if heavily applied. Pros can handle thicker coats but DIY users will have problems with a brush. However a good brush job by a good painter will get you anywhere from 4-8 mils depending on ambient conditions. This generally equates to longer life, less fade, better abrasion and UV resistance. Trying to compare a paint job life in Seattle or Maine to Florida or the tropics is apples and oranges. The hot high sun is the real standard for longevity. If it holds up down South you’ll be tickled to death up North
Good paint jobs are 80% labor 20% Material
One man’s Good Paint Job can be another Man’s Nightmare
Paint Jobs and Color Schemes are all Subjective
You Can’t See a Good Paint Job In a Photo
A Small Curtain or Run Will Shrink But a Holiday is Forever
A Thin Paint Job is Next Years Paint Job
A Touch of Blue Makes Whites Whiter, Yellows and Reds Fade Faster
Whites Make Vertical Surfaces Taller, Blues Makes Wood Richer
Grays and Gray Blends Go on Lighter Then Darken During Cure
Yellows Don’t Cover as Chromium Pigments are Costly
Slower The Cure The Better The Bond
Condition The Paint For Conditions Viscosity Is Key
Using Paint Straight From The Can Is a Fools Errand
Sanding Finer Than 120-150 Will Not Assure a Smoother Finish
It’s Generally Not Heat That Kicks Paint Off But Wind With Both Go Home
Bit of Spit On a Finger Tip Can Rub Out a Small Run 1/2 Hr Before Tack Off
Rollers Are For Walls Brushes Are For Boats
Rick
