Looking for ideas on affixing / fasten appliances and furniture for cruising

[Waterant]

hi guys,

My engine rebuild is almost done, and I'm looking forward to start preparing the boat for cruising. Very exciting.

Questions:

How do you fasten the free-standing furniture for inevitable jumping on some waves? I have chairs, bar stools, a table, and a sofa, all free-standing in the saloon. Without fixing them somehow, all that will fly around when some moron runs 5' from me at full speed. It will have to be a pretty big moron, but they are abandoned in all shapes and sizes.

The same question is for the washer/dryer, free-standing in the pre-engine room area. I'm thinking of 4 blocks to fix the bottom corners and 3 bars at the top.

The old fridge and microwave were affixed by screws driven thru the side walls right into the appliance's enclosure and insulation. Not very elegant but cheap and effective. I would prefer not to do that with the new fridge and convection oven if there is a better way. Any other ideas?

And the last one is the glass shower doors. They are 2 glass panels hinged together with no way to keep them in the open or closed position reliably. I guess some bungee cords can help here, but this is not very "boatsy" .. "shipsy" , not sure what the correct word to describe properly doing things on a boat. Maybe an earth magnet at the bottom with a steel plate on the door panel? can be subject to rust at the bottom of the shower.

how did you solve the above issues on your boat?

 

[Comodave]

Our last boat had teak and holly flooring. We had 2 recliners that would have easily slid around on the deck. We bought an area rug that was big enough for the recliners and put a non slip pad under the rug. The chairs didn’t move in 6’ waves crossing Lake Ontario. The other things you will likely have to make custom brackets for. Bar stools would get laid down on something so they wouldn’t slide if we had them.

 

[Waterant]

Thanks. I was considering the rug, but my wife is against it. Plus, it will cover up my new teak and holly floors

On my previous boat, when we tried to leave the Toronto islands during not very friendly weather, the 43' boat was jumping on the incoming waves in the channel at almost 45 degrees angle. No rag will hold the furniture in those conditions (we went back into the protection of the islands after a few jumps like that). That boat had built-in sitting and the table was permanently attached to the floor.

I guess I'd have to tie everything to the compression post with a rope or something.
Maybe earth magnets on the furniture legs and steel plates on the strategic places on the floor? not sure if they will hold in such conditions.

 

[Comodave]

Another way would be to put pad eyes on the bulkhead behind the chairs and use a bungee or something to tie the chair off during the cruise. Rare earth magnets probably won’t be strong enough to hold furniture. I use them for several things but probably aren’t strong enough.

 

[twistedtree]

We have tried a number of things.


If it's furniture that can be in a fixed place, like bar stools, screwing them down permanently is probably best.


If things need to be moved around oocasionally, you could install thread inserts into the floor or other fixed woodwork, then use a thumb screw the secure the object. When not needed, just remove the thumb screw. The down is potentially visible thread inserts. We have an end cabinet at one end of out couch that is not fixed to allow for variable size couches. And the cabinet blocks an access panel that I need to get into at least twice a year. I have a hole in the back of the cabinet and a thread insert in the wall behind it, then a thumb screw to secure the cabinet to the wall. When needed, I just spin off the thumb screw, move the cabinet, then reinstall when done. Works great. I just did the same with two free standing tool boxes in my ER. The thread inserts are in the sole, and the thumb screws go through holes in the bottom of the cabinets.


For smaller items on counters, etc, earthquake putty works great. We have a number fo free standing lamps, bowls, art objects, sink soap dispensers, etc, and they are all held down with earth quake putty. They aren't going anywhere.


Industrial velcro is also very useful. We use that to hang artwork on the walls, or secure other things where you don't want to drill a hole in the woodwork.


For a sofa or other furniture that is up against a wall, large gate hooks work well. Anchor one end in the wall, and the other end on the furniture. Unhook them to get behind the sofa, and hook them back up to hold the sofa in place. If you roll they won't hold the sofa, but otherwise it's not going anywhere.


Another trick is to gather loose furniture together and bungy or strap it together, ideally secured to something immobile. I think this works better on carpet. On varnished floors, not so much, in fact it's exactly this that destroyed the salon woodwork in my boat when it was shipped over from the factory.


Appliances need to be blocked in or otherwise secured. For holding doors closed, we have airplane galley latches that are used to hold the carts in place. We have also used velcro to strap handles together on double doors to keep them closed.

 

[Waterant]

install thread inserts into the floor or other fixed woodwork, then use a thumb screw the secure the object.

Great, thanks. this is much better than screws.

For smaller items on counters, etc, earthquake putty works great. anywhere.

This is a new substance for me. Can it be removed later without leaving any damage on the surface?

For a sofa or other furniture that is up against a wall, large gate hooks work well. Anchor one end in the wall, and the other end on the furniture. Unhook them to get behind the sofa, and hook them back up to hold the sofa in place. If you roll they won't hold the sofa, but otherwise it's not going anywhere.

Nice, i think something like this with safety will work https://amzn.to/44JuTyn

Another trick is to gather loose furniture together and bungy or strap it together, ideally secured to something immobile. I think this works better on carpet. On varnished floors, not so much, in fact it's exactly this that destroyed the salon woodwork in my boat when it was shipped over from the factory.

Good point. I'm replacing some of the floor panels and do not want to scratch them. maybe a temporary moving blanket just for the trip.

For holding doors closed, we have airplane galley latches that are used to hold the carts in place.

Thanks, I'll check what this is.

 

[Datenight]

We did the inserts.

Rob

 

[Bacchus]

You might check some RV / Motorhome appliance suppliers for the washers, fridge etc. Our stacked washer / dryer combo are tied together with side plates, removable cross bar above and a pair of "U" shaped clips / clamps that capture the front leveling feet to keep it from moving side to side or moving forward. Attachment is a couple accessible screws at front of the machine base.
Fridge is something similar but I've never had to remove it...yet?
I've used 2 piece web straps with a typical snap buckle to hold recliners in a Motorhome. EZ connect & release.
I've seen boat stools with center tie-down that attaches to a removable eye bolt into a threaded insert.

 

[ranger58sb]

The same question is for the washer/dryer, free-standing in the pre-engine room area. I'm thinking of 4 blocks to fix the bottom corners and 3 bars at the top.

Our washer/dryer is attached with a mounting board... which is slightly longer fore and aft than the unit.

The board is first attached to the underside of the W/D, with screws into the unit framing metal. then the whole thing is flipped rights-side-up and the mounting board is stabilized with screws downward into the fiberglass.

Splendide makes some mounting parts for RV/marine installation, but the manual says those are only for keeping the unit from sliding, not from tipping....

Which probably 'splains why our boat maker went instead with the mounting board approach.

-Chris

 

[Waterant]

We did the inserts.

Thanks. It looks pretty neat.

Our stacked washer / dryer combo are tied together with side plates, removable cross bar above and a pair of "U" shaped clips / clamps that capture the front leveling feet to keep it from moving side to side or moving forward.

Super. It seems like a better solution than 4 blocks and 3 bars I was considering.
I'll try to find those in RV stores.

 

[Waterant]

Our washer/dryer is attached with a mounting board... which is slightly longer fore and aft than the unit.

That would be ideal but there is no space to rotate the unit in that room and I'm not looking forward to taking it out as it's heavy like m....r.

This is what i found for washer/drier installation: https://amzn.to/3McmDzI
with a crossbar at the top to stop it from tipping, it's not going anywhere.
I think I can use the same brackets for the fridge and oven if i have room to install those. Sweet.

 

[jleonard]

We simply put some small pieces of non-skid material under the furnitur pegs. If we expected rough seas we would lay the 2 bar height chairs down on the floor.
Never really had any movement to speak of and we were in some rough stuff at times.

 

[ranger58sb]

That would be ideal but there is no space to rotate the unit in that room and I'm not looking forward to taking it out as it's heavy like m....r.

Yes, there-in lies a rub.

We just replaced our W/D over these last couple of weeks... and you're right about potential pain.

At least I had some temporary family horsepower to help offload the old one and onload the new one.

For the swap, ours actually slid out and then back into it's appointed cubbyhole without toooooo much issue, but fiddling with the connections in the back -- from a small-ish side access -- came with some aches and bruises.

-Chris

 

[rslifkin]

I've been thinking about this for when I ditch the carpet in our salon. Currently things stay put just fine in 4 footers, but that'll change without carpet I'm sure. The bar stools are easy, as they sit next to the bar, so a couple of pad eyes and a strap will hold them against the bar when not in use. The thumb screws are likely going to be the solution for the movable table and the club chair.

 

[twistedtree]

Great, thanks. this is much better than screws.

The big advantage of thread inserts is that you can then insert and remove the screw/bolt as many times as you want without damage as you would with wood screws.

This is a new substance for me. Can it be removed later without leaving any damage on the surface?

Yes, that's the whole point, aside of course from holding things in place. If you remember Dr Seuss, I call the stuff Obleck.

Nice, i think something like this with safety will work https://amzn.to/44JuTyn



Good point. I'm replacing some of the floor panels and do not want to scratch them. maybe a temporary moving blanket just for the trip.

I think a moving blanket will just slide around. Earlier someone mentioned carpet with a grippy rubber backing. That's the sort of thing I'd put down. You need it to really grip the finished floor like sneakers on a basketball court.




Thanks, I'll check what this is.[/QUOTE]

 

[mvweebles]

McMaster has 304 SS threaded inserts (1/4-20). $4/ea.

https://www.mcmaster.com/95807A300

Peter

 

[Waterant]

McMaster has 304 SS threaded inserts (1/4-20). $4/ea.

https://www.mcmaster.com/95807A300

Peter

Thanks, Peter.
I found similar inserts on Amazon for $1.10 each: https://amzn.to/3nIKv4F
I'll use wood glue or epoxy to install them.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. W. Wise move to get the hex drive inserts. I re-did all my stancion fastenings with similar but slotted inserts. After breaking the tabs off a few times, I made an insertion tool. Worked a treat from then on. Did about 50 or so IIRC.

 

[mvweebles]

Greetings,
Mr. W. Wise move to get the hex drive inserts. I re-did all my stancion fastenings with similar but slotted inserts. After breaking the tabs off a few times, I made an insertion tool. Worked a treat from then on. Did about 50 or so IIRC.

Good observation about the hex drive thr McMaster inserts have.

Personally, I've been moving away from Amazon where possible. I still order a fair amount from them, but have been more open to alternatives than ever. McMaster has not disappointed me. Prices are a bit high, but quality and delivery are rock solid

OP - good luck with whatever you decide.

Peter

 

[Spike]

This is what we have for the bi-fold shower doors. I just cut a piece of thickish flexible plastic and attached a snap. There is a rubber bumper on the back side (not visible) where the other side of the strap is attached. We've never had an issue with the doors moving while underway.

 

[Waterant]

This is what we have for the bi-fold shower doors. I just cut a piece of thickish flexible plastic and attached a snap. There is a rubber bumper on the back side (not visible) where the other side of the strap is attached. We've never had an issue with the doors moving while underway.

this looks secure enough.
I have a couple of kits with all kinds of button snaps and a tool so this will be easy to add.
Thanks

 

[Bacchus]

Greetings,
Mr. W. Wise move to get the hex drive inserts. I re-did all my stancion fastenings with similar but slotted inserts. After breaking the tabs off a few times, I made an insertion tool. Worked a treat from then on. Did about 50 or so IIRC.

Agree with dislike for the slots for installation. I've found that using a short internal hex socket head bolt and allen wrench works well for installing the inserts. The head bottoms out on the top of the insert and you simply screw it in and back out the bolt. I normally insert the slotted end down figuring it helps cut the threads into the wood.

 

[Xlantic]

A "turn button" keeps my cabinets from spilling the beans in a seaway.

 

[Circumnavigator]

Thanks, Peter.
I found similar inserts on Amazon for $1.10 each: https://amzn.to/3nIKv4F
I'll use wood glue or epoxy to install them.

I'm skeptical of "stainless steel" inserts from China that doesn't specify the metal ID. There are many cheap somewhat stainless steels that you won't be happy with. You want 303, 304, 316, or 18-8.


Jim

 

[Circumnavigator]

Most residential appliances -- washers, dryers, stoves, refrigerators -- come with hefty machine screw level adjusters on the bottom. Turn the appliance on its side and use the threaded holes to attach bars or plywood that extends just beyond the edge of appliance with flat head machine screws. Then screw the bars down to the deck. If you can't find large SS flat head machine screws locally, go to McMaster.


Jim

 

[Xlantic]

A "turn button" keeps my cabinets from spilling the beans in a seaway.

I couldn't find it before but her is the turn-button design I have in a couple of my saloon cabinets. They work really well: they turn freely and swing into place automatically under gravity.

 

[Waterant]

I couldn't find it before but her is the turn-button design I have in a couple of my saloon cabinets. They work really well: they turn freely and swing into place automatically under gravity.

Those look nice. I have this problem only for large appliances, furniture and shower doors because all my drawers are secured with push buttons but I'll keep this in my library for future reference.
Thanks.

 

[Waterant]

Most residential appliances -- washers, dryers, stoves, refrigerators -- come with hefty machine screw level adjusters on the bottom. Turn the appliance on its side and use the threaded holes to attach bars or plywood that extends just beyond the edge of appliance with flat head machine screws. Then screw the bars down to the deck. If you can't find large SS flat head machine screws locally, go to McMaster.

Thanks, Jim
I'll see if I can slide the washing machine forward to screw such plate to the front legs. It will need a cross bar at the top to keep it from tipping over and tearing the screws from the base (I do not have any way to use bolts with a good backing plate there)

I think this may be a good option for the microwave so I do not have to screw into its sides. It's not as heavy and tall as washing machine so a couple of side screws will be enough if I can get to them.

I do not have side clearance for the fridge and can not get my hand in there to crew down the plate. Will have to find something else.

 

[koliver]

Thanks, Peter.
I found similar inserts on Amazon for $1.10 each: https://amzn.to/3nIKv4F
I'll use wood glue or epoxy to install them.

Some nice SS inserts there. Stay away from all others, they look shiny and rust proof, being plated with zinc or brass, but a year on your boat in salt water and you will wish you had the SS.