Installation of gas cooking

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I was intending to reply in a thread in the Marlow-Mainship forum that was discussing 'Change Electric Stove, Install Gas Stove'. However, that thread drifted off topic (badly), and many regular & knowledgable contributors ceased posting. It was basically trashed. A reminder - if you see that happening use the Report Post function so the Site Team can review and take action if required.

Back to gas stoves. I bought my boat in 2012. It had an older combo 4 burner cooktop and oven, with pilot light in the oven. A PITA to use, because if you used the solenoid shutoff the pilot light went out. Then if you used the cooktop to boil a kettle of water without re-lighting the pilot light, it had ejected enough gas to trigger the gas sniffer alarm. Obviously no thermocouple, so it had to go. Looking a bit further there were copper pipes for the gas, a couple of joins, and a gaping hole in the propane locker leading into the galley/salon area. Then, the propane locker itself was full of PO clutter, when it is supposed to be 'sole purpose' for gas. When the clutter was removed I found some DC breakers, and AC outlets to plug in the 120V crane motor. A new locker, and piping etc was required....

As I was importing into Australia I checked the relevant Standards, for the locker and the gas line, to be sure I complied. Here in Queensland a boat sale requires a gas certificate from a licensed professional gas contractor before the sale can be registered. Some years back there must have been serious problems with gas on boats i guess. I did have to replace the regulators and solenoid during the inspection, despite installing new ones in the USA, since the ones I installed did not have "meets Australian Standard' blah blah stamped on them. So very fussy. I installed an Eno 3 burner cooktop that was 'marine certified' and has the thermocouple cut-off facility. I'm still not sure whether an RV or domestic cooktop (with or without oven) and even with thermocouples meet the Standard. So for locals, check before installing! For an oven, I'm using the Ziegler & Brown Triple BBQ on the boat deck with hood. Roasts OK, but for bread its the breadmaker.

Based on some of the info in the trashed thread I noted above, I may well replace the Eno with an induction unit at some point. I have a 1700Ah (12V) house bank, 2 x 200A alternators and 2000W of solar. I'm never short of power, and lately have not even bothered to plug into shore power at the dock as it not necessary. One reason to go induction would be to eliminate the gas from inside the boat, but keep the BBQ which is external and adjacent the propane locker.

Why do it? Well, I have now had 3 alarms from one of the gas 'sniffers', I suspect the one just outside the ER door, just above the bilge. The first alarm occurred the day after I had connected a new house bank, so I suspected off-gassing from a fully charged bank (on shore power) that was being over-charged when the solar kicked in first thing in the morning and insisted on a minimum period of absorption charging at a higher voltage than a bank only needing float VC was happy with. I had another alarm a couple of days later. I then re-programmed all charging sources (Balmar Dual 612, Victron Quattro and a pair of Outback FlexMax 80 solar controllers) to have the minimum possible bulk or absorption times, on the basis that they are all smart enough to measure the battery voltage and go into bulk/absorption if the bank voltage indicated that it was required. No more alarms, at least for a month.

Until mid afternoon at anchor a couple of days ago. This time there was no chance of excessive charging and battery off-gassing. Although I did have to deal with a failed bellows in a vacuflush pump the day before. It was still emptying the head just fine, but putting half into the holding tank, and squirting the other half into the bilge. I noticed a bit of a smell.... I'm still not finished cleaning it all up, and wondering if there is enough 'gaseous odour' (incl methane I guess) from the bilge to trigger the propane alarm, even though I can't smell any sewage at present. They are sensitive, and it goes off if you use more than a couple of brief squirts of bug-spray from an aerosol can.

But then in the trashed thread, there was mention of gas sniffers only lasting 5-7 years, with replacement the only option. Mine are now 7 years old. I don't think I can get the detectors seperate, and would need the whole solenoid device etc :facepalm:

So, although I like gas cooktops, and am not at all nervous about a professionally installed and tested system, I might make a change. But first I'll finish cleaning the bilge and try to locate some replacement gas detector modules....
 
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I was intending to reply in a thread in the Marlow-Mainship forum that was discussing 'Change Electric Stove, Install Gas Stove'. However, that thread drifted off topic (badly), and many regular & knowledgable contributors ceased posting. It was basically trashed. A reminder - if you see that happening use the Report Post function so the Site Team can review and take action if required.

Back to gas stoves. I bought my boat in 2012. It had an older combo 4 burner cooktop and oven, with pilot light in the oven. A PITA to use, because if you used the solenoid shutoff the pilot light went out. Then if you used the cooktop to boil a kettle of water without re-lighting the pilot light, it had ejected enough gas to trigger the gas sniffer alarm. Obviously no thermocouple, so it had to go. Looking a bit further there were copper pipes for the gas, a couple of joins, and a gaping hole in the propane locker leading into the galley/salon area. Then, the propane locker itself was full of PO clutter, when it is supposed to be 'sole purpose' for gas. When the clutter was removed I found some DC breakers, and AC outlets to plug in the 120V crane motor. A new locker, and piping etc was required....

As I was importing into Australia I checked the relevant Standards, for the locker and the gas line, to be sure I complied. Here in Queensland a boat sale requires a gas certificate from a licensed professional gas contractor before the sale can be registered. Some years back there must have been serious problems with gas on boats i guess. I did have to replace the regulators and solenoid during the inspection, despite installing new ones in the USA, since the ones I installed did not have "meets Australian Standard' blah blah stamped on them. So very fussy. I installed an Eno 3 burner cooktop that was 'marine certified' and has the thermocouple cut-off facility. I'm still not sure whether an RV or domestic cooktop (with or without oven) and even with thermocouples meet the Standard. So for locals, check before installing! For an oven, I'm using the Ziegler & Brown Triple BBQ on the boat deck with hood. Roasts OK, but for bread its the breadmaker.

Based on some of the info in the trashed thread I noted above, I may well replace the Eno with an induction unit at some point. I have a 1700Ah (12V) house bank, 2 x 200A alternators and 2000W of solar. I'm never short of power, and lately have not even bothered to plug into shore power at the dock as it not necessary. One reason to go induction would be to eliminate the gas from inside the boat, but keep the BBQ which is external and adjacent the propane locker.

Why do it? Well, I have now had 3 alarms from one of the gas 'sniffers', I suspect the one just outside the ER door, just above the bilge. The first alarm occurred the day after I had connected a new house bank, so I suspected off-gassing from a fully charged bank (on shore power) that was being over-charged when the solar kicked in first thing in the morning and insisted on a minimum period of absorption charging at a higher voltage that a bank only needing float VC was happy with. I had another alarm a couple of days later. I then re-programmed all charging sources (Balmar Dual 612, Victron Quattro and a pair of Outback FlexMex 80 solar controllers) to have the minimum possible bulk or absorption minimum times, on the basis that they are all smart enough to measure the battery voltage and go into bulk/absorption if the bank voltage indicated that it was required. No more alarms, at least for a month.

Until mid afternoon at anchor a couple of days ago. This time there was no chance of excessive charging and battery off-gassing. Although I did have to deal with a failed bellows in a vacuflush pump the day before. It was still emptying the head just fine, but putting half into the holding tank, and squirting the other half into the bilge. I noticed a bit of a smell.... I'm still not finished cleaning it all up, and wondering if there is enough 'gaseous odour' from the bilge to trigger the propane alarm, even though I can't smell any sewage at present. They are sensitive, and it goes off if you use more than a couple of brief squirts of bug-spray from an aerosol can.

But then in the trashed thread, there was mention of gas sniffers only lasting 5-7 years, with replacement the only option. Mine are now 7 years old. I don't think I can get the detectors seperate, and would need the whole solenoid device etc :facepalm:

So, although I like gas cooktops, and am not at all nervous about a professionally installed and tested system, I might make a change. But first I'll finish cleaning the bilge and try to locate some replacement gas detector modules....


Try not to feed the troll, and use the ignore function. Trolls live on constant attention, and go away if nobody picks up their bait.

Our last (sail)boat came with a combination cooktop of 2 gas burners and 2 electric hobs, I think it was a Miele unit. We would run the genset once (or twice in the tropics) a day for charging, and try to combine with cooking meals. Otherwise, we would use gas, for lack of inverter power. It worked quite nicely, but I would probably not build it that way myself, for cost and complexity of the twin installations.

The current trawler came all-electric from the PO, and we only upgraded to low consumption/induction appliances. It works well on the modern inverters now available, but there will still be a gas BBQ on deck, as back-up.
 
Insequent - you have an impressive power setup with 1700AH battery and 2kw solar. I am in the process if setting up roughly half that with 800w solar and 700AH lithium battery.

I've been using an induction hob at home for many months due to a kitchen remodel and I'm impressed.

CatalinaJack just posted on the other thread that he uses a Breville SmartOven, a perennial favorite of America's Test Kitchen. I've used one at home for years. They do work well. Due to space limitations on my smallish 36 footer, I'd look at one of the combination microwave/oven units. Years ago they did neither function well, but have perhaps improved.

I sort of wish this thread had come around 1.5 years ago. I just had the galley cabinets redone including countertop. I kept the Seward 3-burner marine range with oven because it works fine.

Im not positive I would have decided to make the change from gas to electric, but knowing what I know now, I would have seriously considered it. Induction is really impressive and definitely ready for prime-time boat usage as a stove. Just leaves the oven function.

Given your situation, power availability, and governmental restrictions, seems like all-electric is a no-brainer.

Peter
 
Peter
Yes, a no-brainer if starting again, a bit like your situation. My next steps are to eliminate all traces of s--t from the bilge (to ensure I'm not creating any more methane), test the gas detector still works, and then see if it gives any false alarms. My hope is I will have a 'well it ain't broke so don't fix it' scenario, and I'll continue with gas for the time being.

When first dealing with the mess from the VacuFlush bellows failure, blown out past the o-rings under a lot of pressure judging by how far and wide it went, my initial reaction was to immediately place an order for a couple or Raritan ME toilets. It was 30°C and 88% humidity in the salon, and hotter and more stuffy in the ER, so not a period of 'maintenance' that I enjoyed. But after I had recovered from installing the spares in the pump and it worked without leaking I went for a swim, then had a coffee and the world seemed not such a bad place after all. At this point I might just buy yet another bunch of over-priced Vacuflush parts and service the second pump (replace the bellows being the key item) as a preventative measure. I do not want a repeat of the o-ring blowout scenario!
 
Peter
Yes, a no-brainer if starting again, a bit like your situation. My next steps are to eliminate all traces of s--t from the bilge (to ensure I'm not creating any more methane), test the gas detector still works, and then see if it gives any false alarms. My hope is I will have a 'well it ain't broke so don't fix it' scenario, and I'll continue with gas for the time being.

When first dealing with the mess from the VacuFlush bellows failure, blown out past the o-rings under a lot of pressure judging by how far and wide it went, my initial reaction was to immediately place an order for a couple or Raritan ME toilets. It was 30°C and 88% humidity in the salon, and hotter and more stuffy in the ER, so not a period of 'maintenance' that I enjoyed. But after I had recovered from installing the spares in the pump and it worked without leaking I went for a swim, then had a coffee and the world seemed not such a bad place after all. At this point I might just buy yet another bunch of over-priced Vacuflush parts and service the second pump (replace the bellows being the key item) as a preventative measure. I do not want a repeat of the o-ring blowout scenario!

Brian,
I'm curious if you know how long the failed bellows had been in your Vacuflush and what percentage of time you are on the boat.

I'm trying to get a an approximate life expectancy based on consumer experience. I replaced my bellows when I acquired the boat, and again this year on a 5 year maintenance schedule. I'm curious as to how close I could be to the average failure point.

Ted
 
Ted
Both my VacuFlush pumps were fully serviced in 2013. Including new motors, but original housings retained. I still have one of the old motors as a spare, it seems to run fine. For the pump that failed, I replaced the o-rings in 2018 due to 'air only' hissing noise, but the bellows 'looked OK', or so I thought at the time. So perhaps 5 years is a good replacement interval as you plan.

I have likely spent an average of over 100 days a year anchored out, plus some extra days at the dock each year. One year I had a 5 month cruise. So a fair bit of use in the 7 years to date.

Of course I have replaced a bunch of stuff in the toilet itself during that period, just about everything possible I think. But the vacuum tank and switch have been trouble free.

Duckbills have given very long life. I do heed Peggy's advice: use lots of flush water!

For the other unit, it has seen little use. But it is now making an unexpected banging noise, so I will replace its bellows. I think the black plastic split ring at the top of the bellows, which assists in the inner small o-ring seal, must be moving up against the housing on the pump up-stroke. It might be broken. It isn't supposed to move. I can't visualise what else the noise could be. The noise worsens as the vacuum builds up.

I have not added up the cost of VacuFlush parts in the last 7 years, but I suspect they would cover the cost of one ME. Sigh. Oh, to be setting out on a major refit again, knowing what I know now!
 
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For the other unit, it has seen little use. But it is now making an unexpected banging noise, so I will replace its bellows. I think the black plastic split ring at the top of the bellows, which assists in the inner small o-ring seal, must be moving up against the housing on the pump up-stroke. It might be broken. It isn't supposed to move. I can't visualise what else the noise could be. The noise worsens as the vacuum builds up.

I have not added up the cost of VacuFlush parts in the last 7 years, but I suspect they would cover the cost of one ME. Sigh. Oh, to be setting out on a major refit again, knowing what I know now!

I haven't replaced any motors yet and was wondering what your reason for changing them was.

I've rebuilt the toilet base valves, replaced all the hose, rebuilt the pumps except for the motors, and one vacuum switch. All told, probably a thousand dollars in parts. Still prefer to do the preventative maintenance as opposed to deal with the inevitable macerater failure.

Ted
 
This started off as a gas post and now is changing to a vacuflush post. I have 20 years of experience with vacuflush as a liveaboard and with gas for cooking. My experience with gas is the sniffers fail every 5-7 years.

My experience with vacuflush ware items has been fairly random. Originally the gasket seal between the bowl and base used to last 18 months but over time this has improved. Currently I have gone 5 years with no need of replacing this gasket in either of my toilets.

Duckbills are funny, they never seem to fail but new ones seem to hold vacuum quicker. I usually replace them every 5 years.

I have only had one bellows failure and it was over 10 years old. At that time replaced both bellows as I didn’t want to experience that failure again.

In 20 years I have experienced 2 vacuum switch failures. One just got week with time, the other one had a connection issue inside the switch part.

Three generations of motors ago I had some issues with a motor but no issues with any of the newer motors.
 
I have propane sniffers in both boats and have had very little problem with false alarms. They are sensitive to moisture, the only false on the sailboat was when a sensor got sprayed while cleaning. After it dried, no problems. They are now 12 years old. No problem on the powerboat either, only have one which I put directly below the stove. But it is only 2 years old now. You might relook at the locations to see if they make sense for propane. Have had propane sniffers in several RVs, no false alarms but have had two go bad - basically they go off and can't be reset. Both >10 years old.
 
Installed 2 propane cooktops 4 years ago and I am very happy with this. I always follow basic caution principals like open gaz tank only when needed and close it when you are done, never leave it unattended etc. Never got any issue. Tank are stored aft under a bench where any leak can only flow overboard, direct connection from tank to cooktop, hose protected when going thru hull etc Nothing rocket science, just basic common sense.

L
 
When the gas system was being refitted the yard said that sniffers could become annoying if in the bilge area of the ER, so one was place on the floor, just outside of the ER door. I often leave that door open. So ER/bilge area is close by. I think in this case the VacuFlush bellows failure lead to some methane being generated in the bilge as the dried faeces became wet (from my bilge washdown). So likely a temporary problem with the sniffer, but we shall see.

I added some NoFlex to the bilge and have kept it ventilated since, trying get a healthy population of aerobic bacteria to covert the solids. I think its working - bilge has very clear water with some 'sediment'. So tomorrow I'll pump the bilge out and give it a thorough washdown to remove the sediment as well.

Assuming I don't get any further sniffer alarms it will be 'resume normal programming' of cooking with gas.
 
Here in Queensland a boat sale requires a gas certificate from a licensed professional gas contractor before the sale can be registered. Some years back there must have been serious problems with gas on boats i guess.


Ya think?
Google "boat explosions in Australia" or anywhere else.
 
Ya think?
Google "boat explosions in Australia" or anywhere else.

I haven't searched for historical issues with gas (propane), so I don't know. It could have just been some over-enthusiastic bureaucrats at work. The same ones who say in relation to marine sanitation 'use on-shore facilities before departure'. Oh sure, that'll work....
 
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I Google " boat explosions in Austrailia" the first 4 articles never mentioned the source of the explosion.

If similar to the USA, probably gasoline not propane.

Just like the media... instill fear not facts.
 
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