Not an expert, but I wish i had this problem.
(I don't, I only have an Albin 25 with a 50A generator and 240Ah battery bank), but working with my parents on their recent upgrade to lithium in their boat (Bavaria sailboat, 39') and the decisions they made as well as being quite interested I thought i'd give a shot at a couple of answers from my perspective.
When it comes to lithium batteries there are LiFePo4 (cells) and LiFePo4 ("12v packs") to choose from that i know of.
The cell-kind of LiFePo4 is the cheaper one, you build your bank with separate 3.6V cells without any integrated control electronics, here you can easily screw up and cause rapid uncontrolled disassembly or combustion of stuff you don't want disassembled or combusted.
The control-electronics is mandatory, you need balancing circuitry for the cells that are in series (4 cells), you need charge-control circuitry so you won't overcharge them (stuff goes boom if you do), you also need undercharge protection circuitry although that is usually included in the overcharge circuitry or the cells will stop working. This means you can never connect anything directly to the batteries, everything has to go through said charge / discharge protection circuitry, no excuses!
I highly recommend consulting with a profesional who has done these kinds of installations to at least review the planned setup and schematics.
The other kind of LiFePo4 is stuff like this: (being swedish i refer to our neighbouring country norway):
https://makspower.no/produkter/lifepo4-batterier/1-makspower100ah-lifepo4-batteri-1 (13 800nok = roughly $1629 each)
These batteries are basically a drop-in replacement for ordinary 12V batteries, the LiFePo4 cells required are already connected in series inside the battery, they have the charge, discharge and balancing circuitry in the casing, you just plug it in and use it as a normal battery, although since the voltage doesn't change almost anything going from roughly fully charged to fully discharged you would need an amp-meter (victron or whatever you fancy) of some kind which everything related to charge/discharge goes through so you get a nice number on the dashboard saying "-130Ah".
Fuses is also important, not just with LifePo4.. I'd put a fuse on every battery separately so you won't end up with one battery malfunctioning and then getting 4 other batteries dumping all power into the malfunctioning one, things tend to get hot if you do that and this really applies to lead-acid as well...
When it comes to solar panels I personally prefer one MPPT controller per panel, If you use one controller for them all and plug them in series, the weakest link (like one panel being covered 30% by a mast) will cut production by 30% in total, while if you use separate controllers or at the very least plug them in in parallel you only loose 30% of 1/4 of the panels = 7.5% in the same scenario.
Separate MPPT regulators also brings a bit of redundancy as if one regulator dies you still have three more if you have four panels. These should be fused separately of course.
Charge-controllers have two maximums to keep in account, max volts and max amps. They also (the higher-end ones at least have it defined sometimes) have an efficiency-curve of where they are highly efficient. Connecting a 10kW mppt charge-controller could mean you're burning 250W of efficiency since it's not optimal for the use-case for example. To say anything more i'd need to know what kind of panels you're planning to use (to get max Voltage and max Amps from them) and then spend a few hours finding a good MPPT-regulator to fit. Not sure I have that time though but maybe you have.
When it comes to charging the LiFePo4 batteries like the ones i mentioned above, they take 1C continuously until fully charged, 1C = 1x capacity of the battery, so 250Ah battery should take around 250A continuously from empty to around 95% charged.
With this in mind, the 170A alternator will work at 100% output for around 6.5-7 hours going from empty to full batteries, so make sure it has cooling. (Although you probably don't have a small 0.7m³ box your engine is installed in where things get very warm, like I do)
The batteries should be able to absorb around 1250A in your mentioned scenario, multiply that by 14.4V charge-voltage and you realize you could dump 18 000W into them in over one hour, which is a lot of power..
Although, to charge them full within an hour assuming you have something like 5 meters of cables from charger to batteries (2.5m plus +2.5m minus) you need around 500mm² cables to only lose 562W into heat in the cables. (watercooled cables maybe?)
If I were to go this route myself i'd try to put all "mains"-power on a high efficiency inverter going from the battery-bank, then look for a charge-setup that i'd connect to the genset and/or mains which would max out the gensets capabilities, the genset would then run about fully loaded when it's running which should roughly maximize fuel-economy and it would basically only be running when charging the battery bank.
Your 12kW genset could charge the battery bank from empty to full in about 1.5h, not taking ridiculous cables into account..
at 12kW that would mean around 16.3hp used which multiplied with the rough average of 0.185L of diesel per horsepower per hour (it's diesel, right?) gives 3L of diesel per hour or 4.5L of diesel to recharge the bank fully, assuming no losses somewhere (cables, generator, batteries).
Just my few cents.
