Fuel tank removal

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eggowner

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
15
Location
usa
Vessel Name
Dee Vine
Vessel Make
1987 President 43
Do anyone have experience or knowledge on the removal of a fuel tank from a President 43?
 
A $20n cutting tool with a dozen discs works faster than a cold chisel and heavy sheers.
 
Have you checked with any REAL boatyards? They don't have pools, game rooms or volleyball courts but they do have on site machine shop and painting sheds. They may suggest pulling the engine(s) because that is really the way to do it. And they are good at it so it's not a big deal to them. They will want to remove the tanks intact so they can copy them perfectly and insure they will fit on the way back in.
 
I would think It depends on what you are doing for replacement You can cut the old tank out in several ways But how will you get the new tank installed?? A bladder tank, then thats different
 
Cut one big tank up and remove it sections. Replace with small more manageable tanks, then manifold your fuel supply and return accordingly. This is very common in getting the fuel volume you need with minimal mechanical removal.
 
Just remember one word my boy... Sawzall.
 
We changed out both fuel tanks on our boat to aluminum tanks. All I have to say is it's a messy job.
 
(snip) They will want to remove the tanks intact so they can copy them perfectly and insure they will fit on the way back in.

If a boatyard, with or without a pool, tells you they need an intact tank in order to make a replacement, my advice would be to quickly walk away and find another yard.

Mike
 
They will want to remove the tanks intact so they can copy them perfectly and insure they will fit on the way back in.

Why would they "copy perfectly" a failed ANYTHING?

Filling the space with a real marine fuel tank , instead of a box of fuel might be wiser.
 
Spoken by folks who don't own Taiwanese trawlers.....


Back at the time when this happened there was the issue of "Resale" value. There was nothing wrong with the design of the tanks. They were just made of thin crappy steel. They got water in them from crappy deck fills with no gaskets. Their replacements are of heavy aluminum. There are new O rings in the deck fills. There is never any water in the tanks. So far they have outlasted the originals by 5 years. For twenty years I've been blessed with the most beautiful engine room.

Even so, I'm not sure I would do it now. There is a difference in what is acceptable in a 35 year old trawler vs a 15 year old. I also have 20 more years experience with her; more time now and a different perspective too. Now this would be an interesting challenge. Then it was a pain in the ass that I could pay to have remedied quickly.
 
Once we get tanks out we make a mock up using door skin. The tank(s) that go back in will have a similar shape only different.
 
How did they go about removing the tanks from your Taiwanese trawler? Did they remove the engines? The boat I'm looking at needs both black iron tanks replaced. I plan on cutting the tanks out and replacing with smaller tanks. Not sure I have enough working room beside the engines.
 
How did they go about removing the tanks from your Taiwanese trawler? Did they remove the engines? The boat I'm looking at needs both black iron tanks replaced. I plan on cutting the tanks out and replacing with smaller tanks. Not sure I have enough working room beside the engines.

Single engine. It came out through the cabin sole hatches. Straight up, forward, " just a turn to the right" and out the door. Fuel tanks followed.

This yard does all the machinery installations for Cherubini Yachts and others. They know what they are doing. Not quick but good.
 
Single engine. It came out through the cabin sole hatches. Straight up, forward, " just a turn to the right" and out the door. Fuel tanks followed.

This yard does all the machinery installations for Cherubini Yachts and others. They know what they are doing. Not quick but good.


It is amazing what a good yard can do. Note I said good.

But with skills, time and DIY tendencies tanks can be torn up in place and new smaller tanks put back. Either way works for now, but how about 10 years or more down the road? Especially when owner added tanks may or may not have been done correctly using the right materials. The DIY route is pretty risky for a potential new owner to consider. If done via DIY, good photos, BOM records, layout drawings and a written execution plan are pretty important to back up your "it was done right" story.
 
A couple of poly tanks strapped down is easy to see if it was done right...a lot easier than peeling all the insulation off the rusty steel tanks that many here probably bought if the tanks in the boat are original.

Buying a used boat might have a LOT of unseen issues that only destructive testing or dismantling could reveal...that's why there are so many negative feeling posted about surveyors...I too have been burned on all 3 of my major surveys but can't entirely blame the surveyor because there are limits to what they are allowed to do.

But my plans are to cut out and install a couple of poly tanks according to manufacturer and ABYC standards and FULLY expect the installation to INCREASE the value and saleability of my boat.

Even if a newbie screws it up bit, unless one breaks away in a seaway, the DIY install will probably be easier to correct than the entire process of ripping out all the old stuff especially if it involves removing the engine.
 
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Dismantling the steel tanks in place is the route I would take as well. Poly tanks are easily sourced that could be mounted and plumbed in a design that actually increases the value of the boat.
 
What's the maximum size poly tank that can be effectively installed? Are they off the shelf or can they be custom built?
 
What's the maximum size poly tank that can be effectively installed? Are they off the shelf or can they be custom built?

either off the shelf or custom.

I plan on using 4 - 50 poly gallons because they are readily available and would fit in past the engine easily, install easily, leave me lots of room for built in storage, more space around the engine, etc...etc..

Plus 200 gallons will take me easily 500 miles which is all I need. Plus I can run the fuel down easily and keep tanks dry and clean when I don't need them and remove them for cleaning /replacement if ever necessary easily. The biggest issue will be figuring out a fill manifold that I like.

I know you can get ou to 230 gallon tanks off the shelf from Moeller, but configuration becomes the issue...

Moeller Marine Online - Fuel Tanks
 
"Dismantling the steel tanks in place is the route I would take as well. Poly tanks are easily sourced that could be mounted and plumbed in a design that actually increases the value of the boat."

Agree , as with multiple tanks the fuel management of running on one tank most times ,

and only filling the empty tanks at long cruise time , or for winter heat.
 
Why not cut a hole in the side of the tank and put a fuel "bag" in the old tank. Then just put a plate over the hole in the tank?
Wouldn't this be the easiest solution??

Taras
 
I actually thought if I lost one of mine I'd take the top of the tank from about 6" from the bottom out slab at a time and then use the remaining "tray" to hold the new poly tanks.
 
"Why not cut a hole in the side of the tank and put a fuel "bag" in the old tank. Then just put a plate over the hole in the tank?
Wouldn't this be the easiest solution??"

A better built tank may have internal baffles that also will need to be cut out.
 
Seems pretty clever actually. That area is pure glass. I guess you could replace the panel while the new tank is suspended from the ceiling? I'd be pretty cramped for room in the front to do the glass work properly.

I notice there's no re-install video. :(
 
I watched a crew pulling tanks from an older GB straight up through the salon floor and then on up through a big hole they had cut in the roof. Whatever floats your boat...
 
Older GBs like ours have a removable panel in the cabin overhead/flying bridge deck for the purpose of removing engines, tanks, etc. The teak decking and headliner have to be removed of course, but the panel is set up for easy removal and replacement.
 

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