Fly bridge deck repair

[GrandWood]

Hello guys, being a nub I just want to confirm how the deck on the fly bridge is constructed on a 68 GB42 classic.

Have watched a few vids on deck repair, soft spots, (not GB specific)and seems it’s a layer of fiberglass, wood scraps, then another layer of fiberglass. Not sure of what that is called “wood core”?

Any input is much appreciated, thanks

 

[psneeld]

If GB used the same technique as my Albin, I would consider that substandard construction on any small vessel. So make dang sure you get a good answer.

Pouring polyester resin over randomly arranged blocks, having it overheat and bubble, then putting wood screws through the thin glass skin so eventually without good maintenance, it would allow water entry that guarantees a disaster down the road if ever exposed to freezing temps.

I had to fix some pretty major portions of my flybridge, cut out a 6x4 area and replaced blocks with plywood. Other sections were filled with structural foam

 

[GB42-424]

flybridge construction

My 1974 is 1/4" solid fiberglass on top of wood stringers encased in fiberglass. No core. When I removed the teak decking there was insufficient load spreading. I added additional 1208 fiberglass with epoxy on top and coosaboard underneath between the stringers. Also noticed the stringers did not connect to the cabin walls. They stopped short to leave room for wires. I extended them with coosa board.

 

[Comodave]

Aren’t 68s wood? Is the flybridge fiberglass?

 

[GrandWood]

Aren’t 68s wood? Is the flybridge fiberglass?

Yes its a woodie.

I don’t know what the composition of the deck is. I’ve only seen a bunch of Taiwanese decks being repaired. Wood core with fiberglass. The wood core is really a bunch of scraps, some I’ve seen not even bonded together, loose pieces. I could repair soft spots in that material.

I would think most all the woodies in the early days would have the same composition. If it’s plywood on stringers, then repair of the deck might involve removing all the seating and even the flybridge itself. More than I could do.

Surveyor stated the deck flexed with weight applied. His recommendation…

4. Refit / Replace the flybridge deck for greater structural integrity

So I’m just wondering how the deck is constructed.

 

[Comodave]

I don’t know but it will make a huge difference in how it would be repaired. Glass vs wood are very different repairs. First thing to do is confirm what the flybridge deck is made out of. Maybe ask the surveyor or look at it yourself.

 

[BruceK]

GrandWood,Try getting a look,it will show both construction and condition. I saw the sandwich material(foam!) on my 1981 IG via exposed edges around the lazarette. Main deck and FB are likely similar but for FB, try looking around the FB access hatch. Maybe try a test drill?

 

[GrandWood]

You would think there would be some type of plans online for as old as these woodies are. Searching YouTube and google there is not much on GB deck repairs.

Did find a blurb on the side decks and their teak over plywood. So I’m thinking it would be the same for the FB deck. Plywood laying on the stringers, which if the plywood is soft, may have damage to stringers, also if the plywood is soft, wouldn’t that have leaked right through to headliner, which shows no water stains.

Anyway, I’m not at the boat, so can’t personally look. Waiting to hear back on offer, which is contingent on a new survey. So if the deck is real bad, then it’s a no go. Which would be a bummer, have a call into the broker, he may have some knowledge on how bad it is. Visually in pics, deck looks fine.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, the photos usually look good. Brokers don’t put the bad looking photos on the listing.

 

[GrandWood]

Yes, the photos usually look good. Brokers don’t put the bad looking photos on the listing.

No idea if true or not, but seems sellers are not up front on what they know about their boat, they leave it to you and your surveyor to find. Boat im Interested in, owner and broker both know the deck is soft from the oct22 survey, but neither seemed to want to disclose that info in the ad.

I’m on a budget, and I surely do t want to waste money and time on surveys, tie up down payments just to find problems the seller already knew about.

Like I’ve said in the past, boat buying is a sketchy endeavor, I do t want to get stuck with a junker so I’m trying my best to ensure that does not happen. I thought a broker would be upfront honest as to what a boat is. Not so sure that’s the case all the time.

So with this boat I’m currently negotiating on, I feel like both the broker and seller are not being up front, and it gives me pause on a purchase.

 

[kthoennes]

I hear you. There's an 78 foot Hatteras for sale on ebay in Palm Beach, starting bid $149,000, no bids so far. My dad lives in Stuart and he's a former boat broker and captain for hire and I could ask him to look it over, but the listing says "No survey, no sea trial, as-is, if you bid we'll send you a video of the last time it left the dock a year ago... Uh huh. Some boat deals feel good, like our last one, and others just feel fishy.

 

[GrandWood]

I hear you. There's an 78 foot Hatteras for sale on ebay in Palm Beach, starting bid $149,000, no bids so far. My dad lives in Stuart and he's a former boat broker and captain for hire and I could ask him to look it over, but the listing says "No survey, no sea trial, as-is, if you bid we'll send you a video of the last time it left the dock a year ago... Uh huh. Some boat deals feel good, like our last one, and others just feel fishy.

It’s all good, new environment for me, little scary.

Like my buddy tells me, just about any used boat, especially woodies, you look at will have something that needs attention. You do your best to find the right one.

I like the GB42 first off, been holding out for the right layout and all. Couple I look back on I should have moved on. Even the 36, I missed a few.

 

[boomerang]

I hear you. There's an 78 foot Hatteras for sale on ebay in Palm Beach, starting bid $149,000, no bids so far. My dad lives in Stuart and he's a former boat broker and captain for hire and I could ask him to look it over, but the listing says "No survey, no sea trial, as-is, if you bid we'll send you a video of the last time it left the dock a year ago... Uh huh. Some boat deals feel good, like our last one, and others just feel fishy.

$149K still seems like a deal but that last picture, with a galvanized eye bolt and turnbuckle contraption holding the bow thruster in place could be an indication of the condition of some of the other mechanical equipment.

 

[boomerang]

 

[Comodave]

No idea if true or not, but seems sellers are not up front on what they know about their boat, they leave it to you and your surveyor to find. Boat im Interested in, owner and broker both know the deck is soft from the oct22 survey, but neither seemed to want to disclose that info in the ad.

I’m on a budget, and I surely do t want to waste money and time on surveys, tie up down payments just to find problems the seller already knew about.

Like I’ve said in the past, boat buying is a sketchy endeavor, I do t want to get stuck with a junker so I’m trying my best to ensure that does not happen. I thought a broker would be upfront honest as to what a boat is. Not so sure that’s the case all the time.

So with this boat I’m currently negotiating on, I feel like both the broker and seller are not being up front, and it gives me pause on a purchase.

I like to spend a day poking around on the boat before I make an offer. Sometimes it just can’t be done but if possible then I have a good idea what condition the boat is in before we do a survey. Depending on your boating experience that might be something to try doing. If you don’t have the experience to know exactly what you are seeing, do you have any friends that are knowledgeable in boats? Maybe take them along??? It can be a fairly large investment in doing a survey and haul out and then walking away from a bad boat. But it is probably a better investment in walking away than buying a bad boat. Good luck!

 

[hallp]

This was mine

Mine was FG ply FG and due to the teak being screwed was allowing water in and rotting the ply and the roof lining.
I cut it out completely as per photos below. I replaced with a Balsa core which reduced weight significantly. I then glued the top skin back down with the teak attached after grinding screws back and glassing over.
It is a major project so if you cannot do a lot yourself it is a very expensive exercise.

 

[SteveK]

My 71 GB36 showed plywood over the ribs and a top coat of fibreglass to protect the ply and keep it from leaking. Any soft spots must have had the glass penetrated.
I wish they would have glassed the house too.

 

[Comodave]

Mine was FG ply FG and due to the teak being screwed was allowing water in and rotting the ply and the roof lining.
I cut it out completely as per photos below. I replaced with a Balsa core which reduced weight significantly. I then glued the top skin back down with the teak attached after grinding screws back and glassing over.
It is a major project so if you cannot do a lot yourself it is a very expensive exercise.

Nicely done.

 

[koliver]

Aren’t 68s wood? Is the flybridge fiberglass?

GBs went from 100% wood to FG in 1973/74. 36' first, then 42, some under construction in wood were unfinished by the time the first FGs were launched, so a few of each size overlap.

68s definitely all wood, so likely plywood on frames, teak on top.

 

[GrandWood]

Mine was FG ply FG and due to the teak being screwed was allowing water in and rotting the ply and the roof lining.
I cut it out completely as per photos below. I replaced with a Balsa core which reduced weight significantly. I then glued the top skin back down with the teak attached after grinding screws back and glassing over.
It is a major project so if you cannot do a lot yourself it is a very expensive exercise.

Is that a Grand Banks, if so what year?

 

[hallp]

My Apologies, mine is a mid 70's Blue Seas.
I was under the impression they were made in the same yard, but it seems GB's were made in Hong Kong

 

[GrandWood]

My Apologies, mine is a mid 70's Blue Seas.
I was under the impression they were made in the same yard, but it seems GB's were made in Hong Kong

No worries, I’ve seen the wood core repairs, since the Taiwanese trawlers were all built much like that and sorta copied GB in their builds I thought the construction would be the same.

I’m not a shipwright by any means, but have time as a carpenter building custom homes, I can cut out plywood and replace, just seems that painted plywood, especially flat to the elements, would last any length of time.

What is used on seams that don’t fall on a stringer, that has me scratching my head. Bridge deck is the saloon cabin top and I’m perplexed how they don’t leak like a sieve with just painted plywood.

 

[psneeld]

In the old days, sometimes decks were covered in canvas, then painted to avoid leaks.

With the advances in plastic resins, "fiberglass" mostly took over it appears.

A a house builder, you know the difference in building the structure and weatherproofing it. Often not an easy task depending on design.

 

[ronobrien]

My 1974 is 1/4" solid fiberglass on top of wood stringers encased in fiberglass. No core. When I removed the teak decking there was insufficient load spreading. I added additional 1208 fiberglass with epoxy on top and coosaboard underneath between the stringers. Also noticed the stringers did not connect to the cabin walls. They stopped short to leave room for wires. I extended them with coosa board.

That's interesting. I am pulling the teak off my FB (73 GB36) now. I expected a core same as the main deck and the aft cabin top. Mine has a hatch which is presumably for engine/gen removal, although you'd have to remove the teak and headliner to do so. I was getting water in around the hatch which I will obviously repair. My intention is to install "fake" teak decking and arrange it in a way that would allow for the hatch to be removed with minimal destruction. The fact that you have no core makes me think I have to investigate some more. Thanks.

 

[jgwinks]

No worries, I’ve seen the wood core repairs, since the Taiwanese trawlers were all built much like that and sorta copied GB in their builds I thought the construction would be the same.

I’m not a shipwright by any means, but have time as a carpenter building custom homes, I can cut out plywood and replace, just seems that painted plywood, especially flat to the elements, would last any length of time.

What is used on seams that don’t fall on a stringer, that has me scratching my head. Bridge deck is the saloon cabin top and I’m perplexed how they don’t leak like a sieve with just painted plywood.

Pretty easy. Two layers of ply with the seams staggered and epoxy glued and sealed. And a layer of glass on top to seal and give a harder dent resistant surface. That won't leak. I don't know how they're built originally but if I was replacing a deck that's how I'd do it. Probably easier than recoring a glass deck too.

 

[jgwinks]

Pretty easy. Two layers of ply with the seams staggered and epoxy glued and sealed. And a layer of glass on top to seal and give a harder dent resistant surface. That won't leak. I don't know how they're built originally but if I was replacing a deck that's how I'd do it. Probably easier than recoring a glass deck too.

1968 was probably before anyone was using epoxy, but there were other waterproof glues and sealants they would have used.