Dumb shite "tradies" do

[Simi 60]

To be fair we've been pretty fortunate so far on this boat
Most things have been done well enough.........until today.

Started the install for the dc2dc chargers
Simply run a bit of wiring along side existing wiring, through two bulkheads, should be simple enough

But nooooo, hole barely big enough for a fken ant to get through and in a tight corner

Gets out drill and carefully tries to make the hole larger and yep, you guessed it, slips, stabbed the main 240v cable and boat goes into darkness - inside of a cow dark.

Works for the next 3 hours under torch light to cut , splice and heatshrink wires cursing shite tradies and their mental midgetry the entire time
And while the wire was out punched a hole saw through and made it a proper size.

Blood spilled, buckets of sweat and much swearing later, the wires are joined, we have power back and the cable for dc2dc is ran.
Reckon I'll call that a day.

Last cat we built I hated coming across this sort of thing so much that I had run 3 inch PVC conduit glass tabbed into the build for this very reason.

 

[Peter B]

Great post Simi, and why the most common cry from me, others passing by down at the marina near me would likely have heard would have been..."why does everything have to be so bloody hard..!!!?"

 

[Comodave]

Great post Simi, and why the most common cry from me, others passing by down at the marina near me would likely have heard would have been..."why does everything have to be so bloody hard..!!!?"

Because it is a boat…

 

[Insequent]

Shorting out 240V and being able to post afterwards is a good day IMO.

I gave up on drills long ago for tricky areas. Sometimes I use a jigsaw, but my goto tool is a multitool. It just vibrates ,or oscillates, or whatever, and very seldom leads to big drama. I've lost count of how many cable holes that I've enlarged with it whilst existing cables are still in the hole.

 

[Hippocampus]

Have given up on this. So whenever I can prefer a wire chase like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GCXWR...lectronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

Then future mods or additions aren’t such trouble. What drives me nuts is when non operative wires or cables aren’t removed. Takes two people to figure out what’s the dead ones. But often can use them as a snake put put in new ones.

 

[Mako]

Punching through watertight bulkheads with additional wires is where it gets tricky, especially on my previous steel boat. In the future I have to remember to have the builder install additional blank penetrations

 

[luna]

Simi 60

It is generally accepted good practice and likely a Code requirement that when splicing 240 V AC conductors to contain the splice in an approved box. On a boat, a waterproof box is the order of the day. This may, depending on the amount of available existing cable require 2 such boxes and an amount of new cable to connect everything back together. Terminal blocks mounted inside the box are a good thing.

Just butt splices and heat shrink would put you in the company of the mental midgets that you deplore and could ultimately prove unsafe.

It's your boat, if not done so already, why not do it the safe way?

 

[slowgoesit]

Great post Simi, and why the most common cry from me, others passing by down at the marina near me would likely have heard would have been..."why does everything have to be so bloody hard..!!!?"

My quote is "They should require the designers/installers to actually WORK on the boats they design/install!" . . . . . Well, actually, they may occasionally be another word or two added, but this is a family show . . . .

 

[slowgoesit]

What drives me nuts is when non operative wires or cables aren’t removed. Takes two people to figure out what’s the dead ones. But often can use them as a snake put put in new ones.

Totally agree. Over the last 18 months, we have removed so much what I call "Legacy" wiring and stuff that when I took it to the scrap yard I got over $110.00 for it! Given the age of our boat (41 years), none of the original wiring was tinned. Everything that is worked on gets new wiring. If not currently used, it comes OUT! But I leave labeled pull cords everywhere . . .

 

[Simi 60]

Simi 60

It is generally accepted good practice and likely a Code requirement that when splicing 240 V AC conductors to contain the splice in an approved box. On a boat, a waterproof box is the order of the day. This may, depending on the amount of available existing cable require 2 such boxes and an amount of new cable to connect everything back together. Terminal blocks mounted inside the box are a good thing.

Just butt splices and heat shrink would put you in the company of the mental midgets that you deplore and could ultimately prove unsafe.

It's your boat, if not done so already, why not do it the safe way?

What would be better practice is to run a new wire entirely, and that will be on the list when next out for maintenance.

But, we are out cruising full time not tied up to a marina.
I can't "magic" extra gear in at a moment's notice.

Plus there is no space for waterproof boxes and the wiring is above head height so if water makes it that far we have bigger problems.

 

[psneeld]

What would be better practice is to run a new wire entirely, and that will be on the list when next out for maintenance.

But, we are out cruising full time not tied up to a marina.
I can't "magic" extra gear in at a moment's notice.

Plus there is no space for waterproof boxes and the wiring is above head height so if water makes it that far we have bigger problems.

There's field fixes and there's the NASA way. Remember Apollo 13 where they told the guys to use the wrong filter and duct tape and bit and pieces so they could get home? So even NASA figures a jury rig is OK in some cases instead of "well you are gonna die because you can't fix it right"...

Me, I did what I know was safe when on a cruise or even a yard visit with a deadline...and "fixed" it when the better opportunity arose.

Some things never met ABYC or other "best practices"... but after years of running commercial craft not meeting or coming close to ABYC or best practice repairs..... I kinda felt safe doing a good thing even if it wasn't "the right thing" based on "closing in on perfection".

 

[SteveK]

ABYC, now that brings up a question. Does ABYC have a say in how these wire runs are installed, with recommendations for future considerations?

 

[mvweebles]

Totally agree. Over the last 18 months, we have removed so much what I call "Legacy" wiring and stuff that when I took it to the scrap yard I got over $110.00 for it! Given the age of our boat (41 years), none of the original wiring was tinned. Everything that is worked on gets new wiring. If not currently used, it comes OUT! But I leave labeled pull cords everywhere . . .

I had Weebles rewired. Pulled out everything with exception of two runs of newish 120VAC to the ACs. What seems like a fairly straightforward job ends up being pretty difficult. I ended up with a 7/10 for neatness and orderliness. Finding a marine electrician who can rewire from scratch with same level of forethought higher quality builders use when new is difficult.

Simi - I don't think a 3-inch conduit would be sufficient.

Peter

 

[rslifkin]

The big challenge on some boats is when wiring gets tied down in places that are no longer accessible after they finish the build. There are a few things abandoned in place on my boat (both wiring and old steering hydraulic lines) because I'd have to do some significant (and not easy) disassembly to get access to more than the ends of a 6 foot long wiring chase where they're tied down inside. Fortunately the chase is big enough that having them in there hasn't presented an issue.

 

[psneeld]

I had Weebles rewired. Pulled out everything with exception of two runs of newish 120VAC to the ACs. What seems like a fairly straightforward job ends up being pretty difficult. I ended up with a 7/10 for neatness and orderliness. Finding a marine electrician who can rewire from scratch with same level of forethought higher quality builders use when new is difficult.

Simi - I don't think a 3-inch conduit would be sufficient.

Peter

Try that while living aboard....

 

[psneeld]

ABYC, now that brings up a question. Does ABYC have a say in how these wire runs are installed, with recommendations for future considerations?

Yes I believe they do, I reviewed them when I rewired my boat 100%AC and about 75% DC.

 

[Simi 60]

ABYC, now that brings up a question. Does ABYC have a say in how these wire runs are installed, with recommendations for future considerations?

And is ABYC even a thing in the rest of the world.
It's certainly not in Australia

Here, we use this standard
But I doubt many would have seen it as you have to pay $300 to access it.

Safety First should be free in my eyes.
https://www.marinebusinessnews.com.au/2022/09/electrical-standards-for-recreational-boats/

 

[Simi 60]

Shorting out 240V and being able to post afterwards is a good day IMO.

Yep, I was glad all those safety gizmos banged off in milliseconds like they say they do.

I gave up on drills long ago for tricky areas. Sometimes I use a jigsaw, but my goto tool is a multitool. It just vibrates ,or oscillates, or whatever, and very seldom leads to big drama. I've lost count of how many cable holes that I've enlarged with it whilst existing cables are still in the hole

.
And that could have worked and I do have one

But have always had drummed into me that all cutouts and penetrations to be rounded so as not to get stress cracks in corners

Certainly true for my Aluminium and light composite build days
Probably not so much with a heavy lumps of boat like we have now

 

[OldDan1943]

What to you use to fill up abandon bulkhead holes or big holes with existing wires?