Cutless bearing advice

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Westcoast29

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Mar 26, 2024
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Iv been a silent user of this forum for some time and I am looking for a bit of advice users may be able to offer regarding removal of a cutless bearing.

Please see attached photo.

See the p bracket tapers off towards the fwd end.
It looks like the bearing will only come out one way going aft.
So removal of the shaft required.
But due to the fwd diameter of the housing I'm concerned I won't be able to get a press to catch the bearing to push it out if that makes sense?

Has anyone done one like this before?
What's the best method to remove the old bearing? Cut a couple of slits and collapse through the set screw holes? Catch the edge with a chisel to try and prize out?
It's a 2 inch shaft.

Will be doing this job in a few weeks time.

Appreciate any input available. Thanks!
 

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I'm guessing you will have to pull the shaft first. Since it will be out of the boat, I would carry it to a reputable shop and have them check it.

From the picture, I see one set screw. I would check for a second one. If it utilizes set screws, you may find that the bearing can be pressed out with a Porta Power (hydraulic ram set). Regardless of whether you cut the bearing and peal it up with a chisel (been there, done that) or push / pull it out with a Porta Power, you will still need to press the new one in. IMO, I think you need to figure out how you will do that. Possibly the tool you will use for pushing the new one in may be able to aid in getting the old one out.

When I replaced the bearing in Slow Hand during the refit, I found it easier to remove the bearing holder, cut the bearing, peel it, and press a new one in with a hydraulic press. It has a 2.5" shaft.

On my friend's boat with twins and 2 struts with bearings per shaft, he elected to carry it to a yard with a reputation for bearing replacement and shaft / strut alignment. Some jobs are better left to professionals with the proper tools.

Ted
 
Mine has set screws and I just cut a pipe in half, welded a pounding piece on and hammered the bearing out with the shaft still in. I am pressing a new one in with the prop remover I built.
I did this before I read here that this is not how its typically done.
 
I have done this a dozen times or so. I had made a prop and cutlass puller out of a porta power form Harbor Freight . Basically took a steel pipe and cut it in 1/2 . Used all tread and made a push plate and used the hydraulic rams push out the bearing. Worked very well without pulling the shaft. Reversed the process without the pipe 1/2s to install. You want some type of press. Not a good idea to beat on the strut. You can use it as you anchor point to pull/push on the bearing with no damage .
 
Many thanks for your replys already!

My plan is to make a tool using two steel plates and stud bar to jack the bearing out/in. For fitting also I will freeze the new bearing to make it easier to go in.

My only concern is on the removal. I just find it strange on this strut that the bearing housing diameter is smaller on the fwd end. I believe smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing.
Hopefully I can machine a spacer small enough to fit inside the strut fwd end but large enough to catch the bearing.

As is said it utilizes grub screws so hopefully it isn't overly tight a fit!

Also as mentioned it may be an idea to make up two sections of half pipe to press it out without having to draw the prop shaft. But again I have my doubts of this due to the diameter of the fwd end of the strut. Also doing it this way may save time but it won't be possible to clean the bearing housing before fitting the new one. If the old bearing picks up at all on the way out I'd end up having to pull the shaft anyway I think.

Thinking cap on! There are two props on this boat so by the time I get to the 2nd one it should be straight forward!!
 
Maybe I'll give strut pro an email and see what there thought are on this particular strut. Tool looks the business!
 
Re-installation

Getting the new bearing in is easy. Put the new bearing in a freezer and warm the strut up to 150 degrees F or so. The bearing will slide right in. Install swifty as temperatures equalize quickly. Provide a stop so you don't push the bearing through too far! My first try at this sent the bearing all the way through the other side of the strut and on the ground!
 

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