Chipped veneer repair on doors and galley surfaces

[Capt. Rodbone]

We need to do some work on our doors when we finish the Great Loop. I feel certain we aren’t the only GB 42 Classic with the chipping of the veneer shown on the pictures below. I’m wondering what has been done to remedy this by some of you? I’d love to keep the original look, but I’m afraid the only way is to chip off all of the veneer, fair the surface, and then paint. I suppose one could ‘re veneer”, but then it would stand out as very different from other original veneers nearby.
Look forward to suggestions. We are actually anchored in Oxford MD not far from where Dickerson Marine who supposedly specializes in Grand Banks restorations is located. Maybe I’ll dinghy over and talk to them.
So a second question….. have any of you utilized their services?

 

[Hyperion]

I painted our 36 and about to do the same to our 42. You will love the result. An off white pain makes the inside look twice as big and bright. Leaving all the trim varnished makes the beautiful teak stand out that much more. It might be teak you are painting, just remind yourself it is just veneer.

 

[Singingrivercruiser]

I’ll be interested in the responses as I have a project GB 32’ with a lot of potential veneer repair. I’ve always considered painting as kinda a last resort option and even then there’s considerable surface filling and prep. Any good sources for teak veneer in quantities out there?

 

[STB]

Veneer is available in all sorts of woods and all sorts of patterns. I have used product from these folks on various projects in various boats:

- https://glveneer.com/
- https://wisewoodveneer.com/

I've matched teak, mohagany, and ribbon mohagany in various mid-1970s - mid-1980s trawlers made in the US and Taiwan.

You could certainly tell upon careful examination, but only after being prompted to look. And, heck, part of it was that it looked nicer than the old areas.

I'm a big fan of the 3M pressure-sensitive contact adhesive backing, when available.

Like wood, the veneer needs (very) light sanding before finishing.

 

[Comodave]

I painted our 36 and about to do the same to our 42. You will love the result. An off white pain makes the inside look twice as big and bright. Leaving all the trim varnished makes the beautiful teak stand out that much more. It might be teak you are painting, just remind yourself it is just veneer.

We painted the interior of a previous boat due to the paneling being stained and damaged. I sanded it , filled the defects with thickened epoxy and then painted it with Brightside paint. I sprayed the interior using a forced air respirator. We really liked the new look. It was brighter and it did look larger. Also it was easy to maintain and repair if necessary.

 

[tiltrider1]

A trick we often use is a stainless steel panel strip to cover the damage. One can also glue a strip of Formica over the damaged area. A nice piece of 1/2 round teak can be used to cover the seam.

 

[PM]

I see delamination more than chips. If there are no chips missing the veneer can be re glued.

pete

 

[Xlantic]

I second what posts #2 and #5 say. Looks better than the original because of the contrast and it is lighter in color.

Keep in mind there is nothing noble about veneer. Solid teak I would make an effort to keep varnished but veneer is fake wood so I have no problem painting it.

 

[Comodave]

Take some photos of the salon. Then go to a paint manufacturers website and you can preview what the salon would look like painted in various colors.

 

[Singingrivercruiser]

Thanks for the links STB, I’ll want to do the veneer under the helm where I have a couple of removable panels. But now rethinking the areas under the seating after Comodave and Xlantic replies. Could do paint there with just the trim natural. I have a lot of interior painting to do anyway, so was thinking of spraying it all with a lot of prep and plastic and blue tape.

 

[Comodave]

It takes a lot of masking but then the painting goes very fast. Make sure you are using the appropriate respirator for the paint and solvents. I used Brightside which is a one part polyurethane paint so I used a forced air respirator. I used a hobbyist version so while it didn’t meet OSHA standards it was way cheaper and did the job fine. Also get some of the throwaway clear covers for the respirator because you will get overspray on the respirator visor. That way you can just peel off the cover and not have to clean the visor. I used a HVLP sprayer from HD, fairly cheap as it was under $100. And it doesn’t have as much overspray as a regular spray gun.

 

[Turtle Blues]

I won't dispute any of the positives of painting as I have gone way overboard saving veneer and relaminating. As said above sheets are readily available and doing entire panels is pretty straight forward. Saving existing is more difficult but it can be done.
It appears the section in the photo is still complete. If that is true you can syringe inject epoxy under the raised sections, cover with wax paper and clamp until set. I have some random pieces of light angle I use for this. Sanding and refinishing is tedious, water staining is hard to bleach out - must be done before gluing.

 

[OldDan1943]

A. Calk the inside of the fiddle first

 

[Hippocampus]

This is my go to place when I can’t find what I want locally.

https://www.constantines.com/116thickveneers.aspx

They also have peal and stick. I’d carefully take off bad panels and use them as a template. I use thin cheap ply so I can check fitting in place before discarding old veneer. Then take a piece and mail it to Constantine’s to have them match it. Do your least visible panel first. If you like do the rest. Occasionally I’d do all the prep before installing. Find it easier when flat, in good light and resting on a good work surface. Also allows me to seal the edges with varnish or other sealant.

 

[Capt. Rodbone]

Man do I love this forum!

It’s interesting that a couple of you have replied, and are looking into the best options for essentially the same issue. I am convinced to take up the suggestions of painting and lightning up the interior. I wanted to share that we did that in the master state room, and we decided that we wanted the walls a little lighter than the original, Grand Banks, beige. My wife experimented with it like only women can do, but ended up with a color we both love. If anyone here wants PM me and I will tell you the brand, color, and send you a photo of the actual code. Should you desire

 

[Comodave]

Be sure to post some photos of the after job.

 

[Capt. Rodbone]

Will do

I won’t try to tackle it until we finish the Loop. That is unless we get stuck somewhere for an extended period where I can also find what I need, like maybe Chicago?
There are 4 locks just below there on the Illinois that are being shut down this summer for first time since opened in 1903. They are “supposed” to open Sept 30, but after all it’s a government project. Do they EVER finish on time and within budget?

 

[Cigatoo]

This is my go to place when I can’t find what I want locally.

https://www.constantines.com/116thickveneers.aspx

They also have peal and stick. I’d carefully take off bad panels and use them as a template. I use thin cheap ply so I can check fitting in place before discarding old veneer. Then take a piece and mail it to Constantine’s to have them match it. Do your least visible panel first. If you like do the rest. Occasionally I’d do all the prep before installing. Find it easier when flat, in good light and resting on a good work surface. Also allows me to seal the edges with varnish or other sealant.

That’s a great source Hippo. Thanks for that.

 

[ranger58sb]

If anyone here wants PM me and I will tell you the brand, color, and send you a photo of the actual code. Should you desire

Is it some special kind of boat paint? Mold-proof or some such?

We're thinking about de-wallpapering and then painting our master head...

-Chris

 

[Cigatoo]

Is it some special kind of boat paint? Mold-proof or some such?

We're thinking about de-wallpapering and then painting our master head...

-Chris

I have painted our inside boat walls using Benjamin Moore latex with excellent results. Both flat wall paint and also semi gloss in different areas. Works just as nicely as at home. No need for “boat” paint. Easy to touch up and clean. Use BM Fresh Start or Kilz for primer.