Another Alternator Question

[Max Simmons]

I removed the port alternaor and took it to the local shop to see about replacing the housing. They tested it and said it there was enough wear that it made more sense to replace it. They sold me an exact replacement of mine which they said is an "agricultural" unit. I questioned this since I expected that it would be marine grade. They assured me that the original was agricultural grade and since it worked fine for 24 years, I bought the new unit. The original has 5 connections. One to the battery, one to ground and three smaller push type connectors. I carefully labeled all connections when I removed the original. Installed replacement and hooked up wiring exactly how I removed the old one. Re-connected the battery and hit the start switch. Motor fired right up but there was some pulley noise so I hit the stopl switch and nothing happened, engine continued to run. Hit it a few more times, same result. Finally, manually threw the linkage on the fuel shut off solenoid and she stopped. I looked it over and all looks ok. I hit the stopl switch on the starboard engine (which was not running) and could hear the fuel shut off solenoid kick in. When I push the port side stop button, the solenoid does not move. Another item worth noting is that when I hit the port stop button, the dash gauges on the port side light up and temperature gauge pegs. Somthing is messed up and I suspect that is has somthing to do with the three push on connectors. Does anyone have a diagram showing what the three connectors do, or are supposed to do? I can´t find this info in my shop manuals. I was pretty careful in labeling them, but could have screwed up. Any advice?* I am really hoping that gauges aren't fried* Of course I'll be talking with the shop in the morning as well.

 

[troy994719]

Max
I have had a Lehman stop solenoid get stuck, I took it apart and cleaned it, put a little lube *on it and it worked fine after that.

 

[Keith]

I'd sure be carrying a spare for that solenoid!

 

[2bucks]

Take the push type connectors off and see if the lights/gauges work properly again. Then put them back one by one and see which one makes them stop working correctly. Thats one of the wires which is reversed.

Take a volt meter and see which one has power. (may be two but probably only one) That's the one that you want your stop solenoid push connector on.

It's probably only two wires which are reversed. The one with power is the one that's lighting your dash lights and it should be powering the stop solenoid.

Good luck

Ken

 

[Capn Chuck]

Max, Not sure how your wiring set up is, every boat is different, but the shut off solenoid to my engine is not connected to the alternator. It is energized when the ignition is switched on but it will work without the alternator connected at all. I would check the solenoid first before the alternator. you could switch from the other engine and see if the problem moves. Chuck

 

[2bucks]

I might be assuming too much here, but it sounded like there were no problems prior to pulling the alternator off.

The odds are pretty long that 3 electrical items, the stop solenoid, the left side dash lights and the gauges all have problems, on the same engine/side, at the exact same time as the alternator was removed, nothing went bad on the starboard side, and they aren't related.

The push to stop engine button lighting lights and moving gauges doesn't sound like a bad solenoid does it? Doesn't it sound like a wire hooked up wrong? I don't think my gauges and dash lights are normally hooked to my stop solenoid switch, but then I might be wrong.

Of course we don't know what type of engine or it's exact setup. I don't have the three push on connectors on my alternator either so I'm just going on general knowledge.

Please let us know what you find.

Ken

 

[Jim Spence]

It sounds to me like a ground wire is off or missing or miss wired and the solenoid is back feeding through the wiring trying to energise.

 

[Max Simmons]

Yes Ken, you are correct.* All worked well before the alternator swap out.* I did stop by the supplier and mapped out the 3 push connections.* At least now I know what each does and how to test.* Will go at it again tomorrow.* Tonight we get to do a brake job on the wifes Volvo with hopefully more success.

 

[Max Simmons]

forgot.. they are Perkins, non turb 6.354



-- Edited by Max Simmons on Thursday 14th of May 2009 04:17:12 PM

 

[Penta]

By all indications you have twin engines and probably a duplicate alternator / wiring on the un touched engine. Why not compare the connections as they exist on the untouched alternator and see where you went wrong with the one you replaced?
Just a thought for a quick resolution in my mind.
John Tones MV Penta
Sidney, BC

 

[Max Simmons]

In theory, the wiring should and probably is the same. The wires go into a bundle with dozens or so other wires. The previous owner has shot paint on most of it and without cutting open the bundle, it makes it hard to decipher. I may open the bundle and start tracing, but would like to avoid it at this point.

 

[Max Simmons]

Solved. Loose ground wire. Cleaned it off and snugged it up and good to go.

 

[FF]

Solved. Loose ground wire. Cleaned it off and snugged it up and good to go.


The solution for about half the problems on many boats!