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Forgot to mention, the previous owner had put in a high output Balmar, so I have dual alternators which I really like. The original charges the starting bank, the Balmar charges the house. I use a lot of energy for refrigeration and freezer, I actually have another 12 Group 27 AGM under the...

Im an electrician who works in renewable energy. I run two group 27 Concorde AGMs as my starting battery, wired straight to the engine. I have a single engine 120 in my 36’. House bank is a pair of 4D Concorde AGM and gen battery is a single group 27 AGM. The pair works great as the starting...

I’m interested. Will send you a PM. My primary is openCPN on a laptop and I was looking around for an affordable AIS.

I didn’t realize they were on separate circuits. Still sounds like voltage drop though. It would be your VHF when on full transmit that would be pulling things down. I would think it would pull more power than your chart plotter, but could be wrong. Does it do the same regardless of...

Sounds like Voltage drop. Wiring is too small to support the other two devices while the VHF is drawing power to transmit. Upsize your wiring (both negative and positive) from the breaker panel to your radios. Make sure your ground/negative are clean and have a good connection.

Important?! Only the fuel supply to the engine (where is my sarcasm font, haha).. Previous owners fuel connection, I suppose I ought to clean it up. One of those things that seems normal now after looking at it for four years, and list of priorities is long..

Makes perfect sense

Correct. You can point it any of 360 degrees worth of direction until the red casting is tightened and hoses are mounted. Pay intention to which is in and which is out. The pump is such that the impeller could spin either direction, as well as the pump could point either direction. I briefly...

Here is my new pump (probably with the brass elbows I'm not supposed to use). Note how its cocked a little to the side, gives better room for my little funnel to drain the injection pump oil. In fact maybe better space than with the old raw water pump..

Started on my stern deck during our week out over the 4th of July. Had two days of good weather and was able to grind off the stern nonskid and get one coat of 10oz glass down, just barely enough to seal it. Hope to address my soft spots later from underneath with a vacuum pump and thin epoxy...

On my looong list of things I want to do to the boat someday is to replace both doors. On of the POs built new ones but they are oak and poorly made, won't hold varnish. My plan is to use UHMW for the rail and slides, one could easily DIY with a dado blade and tablesaw. UHMW is awesome stuff...

I'll have to double check. I believe the elbows I used were brass. Is the pump housing itself not brass? Why is brass bad?

No modifications needed for the new pump design. It replaced the whole assembly and gets rid of the old adapter block off the timing case. When you swap it out, you'll remove the old adapter and gear. It was a quick and easy install. Only caveats are the Hoses position a little different...

Thats an interesting idea, I'm intrigued and like the concept. I just realced both the oil and trans cooler in the last year, it'd be a good time to swap them over to the fresh water side...

I considered a rebuild for mine when I ended up getting the new one from FredWarner, but I believe some parts such as the shaft are no longer available. With that said, a full rebuild isn't doable. One could do the seals and bearings but without a shaft it's liable to leak again..

I'm thinking the green hoses are grounding cables?? Edit - I didn't refresh and see the new responses...

I just did the same to my 120 last year. Raw water pump was starting to drip and was the old style. Cost a few bucks but I got a complete new unit including gear, upgraded it to a new style which is more robust and easier to service. I actually got mine from Fredwarner1.net for about $550...

My stuffing box looks about the same. When I got the boat it had some legacy copper tubing abandoned in place, but it was no longer hooked up and capped off. I've left it as such. Pex and/or heavy duty fuel line would be my choice if I was going to hook it up back up

Anyone recognize this cylinder? It looks like the old Wagner series except the rod passes through the back of it. I'd like to replace or it find a different option to replace that is a somewhat straightforward swap before this one fails. No leaks, but the corrosion does not leave me feeling...

Put down a coat of Kiwi this morning. Very easy (and not smelly). The texture is serious though, I can imagine the grunge that will build up in there in short order.. Might try a second coat tomorrow, thin it 10%, and use a smoother roller. Epoxying down some d-rings to my flybridge/main...

Thanks for the comments everyone. I'm headed down tomorrow to do some work, hopefully weather will cooperate so I can kiwi-grip last years glass work on the Flybridge and fwd cabin, plus a long list of other maintenance items to try to stay ahead. Pretty much what I expected to hear on the...

Nice looking work. The T&G boards you put down were on top of your existing fiberglass deck, correct?

Some photos from the main cabin repair. I'm not seeing signs that soft spots in the deck are anywhere near this bad. Didn't help that the P O put up foam and fiberglass paneling over the ceiling..

Interested to hear a few different thoughts and ideas on deck repair options. I have a Universal Litton 36' Taiwanese trawler. Much of it has been redone over the years and is good shape. The decks not so much. The previous owner pulled the teak and "fixed them" but I'm thinking they...

I built my own. Extremely happy with it. It was fairly expensive, but considering my boat is in the water year round in Alaska, and if I'm not on the boat I'm 360 to 700 miles away, it is well worth it. Cellular internet modem Cheap D-link cameras Custom built PLC system - 6 float sensors...