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To answer your question: I have no clue who installed the dry stack/keel cooler. The PO had died and that is why the family sold the boat. Could have been original from the factory. This is not a production boat but it sure looks like it could be a Bill Sutton design/build, only a guess on my...

Ski, I will proceed to make 2 changes. 1. Reduce flow restrictions in the cooling loop which includes the jacketed exhaust manifold. 2. Return the outlet of the the exhaust manifold loop to a location near the FW pump on the suction side. The work will not be able to be completed for a few...

This is a "new to me" boat with no documentation related to the correct way to keel cool this engine. It was purchased after the owner died and no one in the family or otherwise can tell me anything of the previous use and history. The present keel cooling system is not adaquate. Previous...

Ski, I have made the change to the attached flow diagram per your suggestion no. 1 above. The cabin heater outlet is now flowing into the suction side of the FW pump. When you say on the suction side I assume you mean close to the pump on the suction side. Strictly speaking on a loop system...

Ski, would a 3 way thermostatically controlled diverter valve plumbed as shown on the attached diagram solve some problems?

Ski, It would be a relief to not need to mess with the keel cooler flow. I have attached a diagram that illustrates the coolant flow path as I believe it is. When trolling (40F water) at 600RPM the engine temp stays 40F less than the 170F thermostat rating. The thermostat housing was opened...

PIA, yes this is what I have had to do to maintain the proper engine coolant temp. Also, the sea water temp also plays into the need for constant valve adjustments. Help me out here, I'm not sure how to plumb such a bypass. The way I interpret this is shown in fig. 1. Seems that the water is...

Interesting, I have no way of regulating the keel cooler flow other than gate valves on the keel cooler inlet and outlet pipes. Also, no way to send water back into the engine if it doesn't flow back thru the keel cooler. My engine has 2 thermostats in the water manifold. The thermostats do...

Your right-on about the sharing path. IMO the coolant path is called upon to do too much as currently configured. It seems to me that the existing flow path is as follows: The engine driven pump sucks coolant from the keel cooler and pushes it into the engine block. After flowing through...

400 F. Caught it early on and reduced the RPM to 1500 and also opened the keel cooler flow valves to maintain the required engine operating temperature at 170 F. Problem then becomes that if operating at a trolling RPM of 700 the engine never reaches operating temp. Between a rock and a hard...

The cabin heater off the engine started blowing cold air. A check of the engine temps. with and IR gun showed 400 F. on the exhaust manifold and normal 170 F on the engine block and coolant tank. I needed to add a gallon of coolant to bring it up to the level at startup. This may seem like a...

To answer your questions as best as I can: 1. Yes, it's a dry stack exhaust. 2. No, the supply/return lines below the Racors are the supply/return lines for the cabin heater. Those are the longest lines in the coolant loop and I'm thinking of eliminating this heater to see what this does to the...

My new to me boat is a 46 ft. steel FD trawler powered by a Gray Marine marinized Gray Marine Detroit Diesel 4-71N engine. The boat was purchased in Stockton, CA and while running it to Alaska I had problems keeping the exhaust manifold from overheating. I have heard else where on this forum...

I first came across these belts on a boat I purchased, first thought was that they were used for emergency only. Belt manufacturer web site claims 10+ times longer life than rubber belts. They are used extensively in industrial applications where long life is needed. They do cost more than...

You might try First Bank of Alaska. They have offices in Ketchikan and Juneau, not sure about Sitka. I have known others with success with them.

Stove Problem I recently had a stove problem and discovered that the burner element was not at fault. It turned out that the problem was a defective control knob. Make sure that the element is bad first, that's the easiest to replace.

If I may throw out another suggestion - My experience with electric winches is that the selenoid is usually my problem. I have since learned to carry spare ones-quick change out and then usually good to go. Good Luck!