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I am sure the good folk at American Diesel can suggest how to do it.

I think we have been trolled ...

It is easy enough to check the the fuel level in each tank as they are normally equipped with sight-tubes. If there is a big difference it could cause the list. If not, then the broker is wrong and something else is causing this.

How about this, in SS: The large diameter of the insert spreads the load. A machine screw allows easy seemly & disassembly without weakening attachment point. You can also use epoxy on the insert for greater strength and better sealing of the wood.

https://youtu.be/cA2AJlf0lwE

Over the years I have tried four different hooks, including the ones shown above, but now I just use a rolling hitch: quicker, cheaper, less fussy to set and more reliable.

I describe the one in the picture as "compound" because the bracket where the forward roller is mounted pivots around the pin near the other end. The base of the is the small bracket on the right. this is fixed to the anchor pulpit and the longer bracket with the large and small rollers the...

So even with the compound bow roller the windlass struggles? I have no experience with these but I was pretty sure they help "getting over the hump". No personal experience with the bent swivel but to me it seems it would work. Then again, I thought the compound bow roller would work ...

These would solve your problems:

I see your problem. Probably a common one (My windlass sometimes struggles at that point.) Not sure those swivels will solve either problem although it will help orient the anchor by hand. There are special swivels that are longer and have a "knee" that I think would work. To bring the...

Why include a swivel. It is an extra cost and additional point-of-failure. What's the benefit?

In the GB50 you can just about see the top of the fuel tanks from the engine room. If not, you can invest $50 or so in a "key-hole" camera to take a look. I have had had two Grand Banks from the 70s and neither had rust issues at the top of the tanks, or anywhere in the tanks for that matter.

Below is a cross section of the deck area in my 1973 GB50. The teak deck was probably around an inch thick originally.

They are a bitch to get out. There are tools you can build to pull then out but you can also saw them lengthwise and pull out with pliers, as below:

raw water pump going? I would also check the raw water pump belts and bearings. You can look for leaks and maybe compare the temperatures of the pumps in the two engines with an infrared themometer while underway.

Pipe for an air horn?

On my earlier 1979 GB42 the windshield wash came off the pressurized fresh water system via a manual valve in the ceiling above the helm. In your system, if you have traced the piping back to a tank then it seems it is missing a pump, or you may have missed it. Alternatively if the washer...

You should try to remove all the soft wood before repairing. I also like to add an anti-fungal product at this point as well. Once dry, you can then apply a few coats of Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy (CPEs) or Interlux's PU base coat (until it is not absorbed any more and gives a shiny...

I really like this stuff: Interfill 833 Fast Cure Boat Filler | Interlux Easy to apply, doesn't sag in vertical surfaces, easy to sand and great finish. I use a lot of West System's epoxies and their various fillers but I have not managed to keep them from sagging on vertical surfaces.

It also suggests that a bit of preventive maintenance may be called for. From now on every time I come a terminal block on the boat I will check the screws for tightness!

Hull numbers are often found on the stern, starboard side, just above waterline.

:lol::lol::lol: At least in a wooden boat you "do it all over again". This is harder on a fibreglass one. :D

That is true of exterior varnished wood, as common in fibre glass trawlers as in woodies, but not of properly sealed and painted wood.

Nice engines! I just re-uploaded the brochure in my post #22, above.

I also have never heard of a Grand Banks 55. From the outside she looks just like my 1973 GB50 (hull number 55), except she has an extra porthole on each side, around where the engine room is located. I have never seen this in other GB50s. It could be original as an option or later added. In...