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Actually, it seems none of these electric stabilizers is (yet) direct driven. Waveless units have a small epicycloidal reducer pancaked next to the motor, and other manufacturers seem to have somewhat similar setup: https://www.praxis-automation.nl/products/electric-fin-stabilizer...

Of course this combining of roll stabilization and steering is not mine nor novel: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/36699844.pdf But it would just make so much sense. One supplier for all the fin actuation, one set of spares, one combined integrated system and ability to use fins smartly...

These direct driven high torque motors usually have a integrated, but separate magnetic braking device, so that the no-speed torque does not need to be held actively and thus consumes very little torque/power. Maybe a separate positive locking pin would also be a good addition, like they have in...

I agree on the speed, steering does not need to be that fast. But conventional electromechanical actuator is much more complex system, and they have additional failure modes like stuck/stripped gears etc. A direct driven BLDC is much simpler, it has no moving parts if we don't count the...

Well, they seem to read this forum and it did not take them long: https://www.cmcmarine.com/steering-systems Instead of two identical motors they went with a main motor and smaller emergency one, each with independent power supply (230VAC and 24VDC). This is a more conventional mechanical...

It says "STAB 25 is the perfect fit for yachts between 15 m (50 ft) and 24 m (80 ft)", so I presume as my boat fits that range, they would suffice for passage stabilization, but for at anchor would need to be sized up one to STAB 30 model. They are indeed rather expensive. I would bet with time...

Could you share (at least) the ballpark price range you were quoted for these? I see no reason why they should not easily last the same, if the parts are dimensioned correctly so there is no overheating etc. At work I have come across multiple electric motors decades old and working just like...

They seem nice. I would bet they will come up with a 48V version/option soon. It would make sense for the bigger models, to keep the currents and wiring size more manageable.

I have a slightly bigger boat, but still my hydraulics setup takes up an entire wall out of the pretty sizeable engine room. Tanks, hoses, heat exchangers, cooling pumps, valves, manifolds etc, it is a lot of stuff, not only the pump on the main and aux engine. I bet going to electrics would...

True and agree on the first part, for a superyacht with 24/7 genset or say 40ft boat electric stabilizers are way more practical and just make so much sense. Now that they are available from multiple vendors for any boat size, I would not claim "hydraulic is almost the only viable choice" for...

Even all these established manufacturers are bringing electric options. Forgot to add, at anchor electric power is much easier to provide than hydraulics.

This is simply not true. Hydraulics is mainly used for its power density. It will never match the response time of electric drive, which can be controlled in a timescale of milliseconds, microseconds even. Heck, in this context hydraulics is electrically controlled, via solenoid valves. Its...

Thank heavens! I do not quite get this "trend" of building a flybridge and then converting it into a indoor space. I must be missing something. It is not like these boats are lacking interior space to begin with. With enclosed flybridge, there is no comfy spot left to spend outside while...

Are these batteries you chose (did you mention the brand) liquid or air cooled? If the battery cooling did happen to fail, I think it should be not _that_ critical if you monitor the battery temperature and limit the charging current accordingly. I think it - the temp - should be monitored...

Ok thanks! If you hit a blade to anything at all solid, there is a fair risk for the internal pitch control mechanism getting damaged also. In fact, I would be surprised for damage to be limited in such a way, that it would require just replacement of one blade but nothing more. For a fixed...

Slight correction, the prices are now sub 500 usd :)

It is a generic HIK Vision brand unit, there are many models available - I have to check my exact model. "Thermal Network Bullet Camera" gives results. Also "name brand" Axis P1280E is sub 1000 usd: https://www.axis.com/files/datasheet/ds_p1280e_t10080225_en_2103.pdf That might be just an...

These BLDC type motor/generator will do the trick. They are 99% passive units, in a sense that only thing needing maintenance is the bearing. Properly fused they won't ever fail, as fusing protects the windings from melting in case of short circuit etc. Heck, you could carry a roll of spare wire...

That is the minimum end of the price range, as stated. 280Ah LFP cells are now available for sub 100 usd. Quality cells a bit more, but I think you should find pretty good ones in the 200 - 300 usd / kWh range, if buying direct from the manufacturer - China that is. With the most affordable...

Which brand and which power rating is this? N56 has Hundested brand CPP and most likely oversized a bit to be on a safe side. Not the most affordable brand of CPPs. It is not just being on Nordhavn. In theory yes. In practice it is not quite this easy. If you ding the prop a bit, then just...

Me neither. I would definitely keep the batteries themselves 100% passive and have an external BMS. The answer is having enough battery capacity. LFP is now like 100-200 usd minimum for kWh, so the cost is fairly reasonable. I would always go for double the max charging capacity in kW for...

- any reason not going with the higher 1.7x ratio vs 1.4x chosen? - can you give a rough estimate/ballpark figure on the cost of one such Esco Power clutch? What about the e-motors and inverters, just to give rough idea?

It does. With a wide enough a boat, say this 78ft long XPM but say with 36ft wide hull, you could _easily_ have enough solar to cover your propulsion needs, at least for slower speed cruising and/or shorter trips provided you have enough battery capacity (*). But a 36ft wide boat will be rather...

Splitting the battery bank into two (or three) and having multiple parallel inverters, as many as you want? Wastes nothing as they can all be actively used. Could even carry a spare LFP cell or few and/or a spare inverter.

If you ever end up doing inland waterways, adding a small gen is always easy, just save a spot in the ER. This way you could hit the speed limit all day long and not clog the main engines with low rpms and loading. In fact, I would maybe consider adding one already, but main thing is to save a...