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We have lived aboard for a couple years now. (1.5 in a sailboat, now in a trawler) and I concur with some of the ideas here... you find yourself making excuses for not going out (tired from work, chores to do, family you have to go see, etc).. but we use one idea already mentioned. We have to...

Just called Donaldson's (east of Hayden Island - up river) 150 gal would be $3.20 for diesel... guess I am fueling this weekend!

guess it is time for me to go look up the manual on it again :) Before all I researched was if it was 4 stage or not... now I need to look closer. Thanks! If reducing float charge a tiny bit helps keep them from boiling as much, they might last longer than I hoped.

OK, I figure I am either going to come out sounding dumb because someone has covered it before, or start a long discussion with lots of technical points.. or both... BUT.. here goes... We live aboard in the marina and are on shore power most of the time (we work on land). Our shore side 12v...

I don't know about that.. seems like a sawz-all worked quite well! :rolleyes:

I am thinking since you talk about Portland... does this particular Californian have smoked glass panels on the fly-bridge? If it is the one I am thinking of, the current owner did some remodeling after obtaining it from a live aboard bachelor.... guess it was kind of sad looking. Anyway...

welll... funny you should ask.. I literally finished this last weekend... I have to say.. quite the job.. If you are going to use Peninsula(aka Motion Windows) make a VERY careful tracing of your existing window. That is what they will make and if you are off... well. Be advised that...

my vote is for something like a 44' Nauticat motor sailor... amazing room and you can sail it too.

We have 3 of the tapered seacocks - 2 main engine and 1 for the gennie... damned if I can make them move. I have tried loosening the nuts on the other end.. tried tapping them to loosen it... sometimes I worry I will snap something if I try too hard a mechanic who used to work on them for...

for us, we pared down most everything large. Furniture, beds, cabinets, etc. We have it down to the point of fitting along one wall of the garage... so, the daughter/grand kids have the house, we use one small part of the garage for storage of the things that were too hard to part with yet...

we have one, a little older I believe.. also no markings left. There is not a lot of info on the web for some reason. You would think so with how many are out there. so a thermometer has to suffice. we also have the knob for "broil" but heck if I can figure out how to make it work :) The...

OH, if it helps any.. this is the diagram sent to me by the manufacturer... am I wrong in thinking this is an isolation transformer? http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/tmiller1116/winding.jpg

If $ was no object, I could consider polycarbonate. But then if $ was no object, despite loving my Californian, I think I might have a different boat. :)

so any electrical experts here live in Portland, OR and be available some day to help trace wires... I can probably afford a couple of Coronas :)

At the risk of starting a controversy..... a simple question that should have a simple answer... if a boat has an isolation type transformer (i.e. 120 to 240 VAC transformer that "separates" the shore power from the boat.) will it cause the boat to seem as if it has an open ground on the AC...

ok, between your post and #1 son stressing over how to make the frame solid enough for rough handling... I guess metal it is.... at least he can still make the trim to go over the flanges.... was kind of hoping to avoid the cost, but guess I have to bite the bullet on this one.

well, I have decided to try going with wood to keep the look..... #1 son will try to remake the new frame from oak... and we saved 2/3 of the glass. One was cracked so have to have it remade. then we will seal, install and seal again.. then he will make new teak trim since the original kind of...

Okay, I am going for the gusto so to speak and replacing both aft stateroom windows. A 1979 42LRC. the windows are of course about 8+ feet long in 3 parts (middle part a slider). I cannot find anything on replacement of these, or replacement wood windows..so looks like I have to go metal...

"I recently went through a water heater rebuild and new pump and pressure tank replacement.(I can relate to limited access)" Are you kidding me? I can only WISH I had that much room to work in! :blush: Mine sits between the engines, under the water pump, behind the battery charger and half the...

wow... not one response. :) figured someone had to know the difference

1st thing I did was to replace as many standard lights with LED. The old fluorescent were 22 watts, the new LED as little as 4... one that is 20 for large area light. Over 10 lights changed that way. Even if we only cut the draw by half that is over 100 watts there. oh, and the anchor light...

Been looking to replace my 12v freezer... (yes it can do 120 VAC also)... Found these 2... obviously built from the same people under different names... EdgeStar 12V DC Portable Fridge / Freezer - 43 Qt. - FP430 Whynter 45 qt. Portable Fridge/Freezer-FM-45G at The Home Depot BUT... if you...

been a bit and I finally have an answer on what has been going on.. at least for the power drop issue if anyone has been wondering :) turns out that the marina power from the distribution box runs 275 feet from the last junction box. The current wire is a #8.... calculations say that to...

partial update! as for the voltage drop issues, we have found out the cause... and it is so simple we should have looked at it first. When the dock was built out however many years ago, they ran the electrical from the main service box to our end tie. The wire in question serves 5 slips...

I imagine that somehow this has been covered before... but here goes... I am not an electrician.. I understand enough to get by... When I am hooked to 30amp120v shore, I can put a multi-meter on my power transfer switch connections and see 115vac. Start some item on the boat like a heater or...