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Aluminium flat bar/strip stock from onlinemetals.com. 6061 T6 1/2" x 4" x 2 ft long is less than $30 (plus shipping), but I'm just guessing at what you need.

For option 3, I'd simply replace that horizontal plate with a longer one, since it appears to be bolted onto the tab that's welded to the mast. That's something you can do yourself.

I ran a scrap handling machine for a year or two with a 4-53 in it, and it always struck me as the noisiest DD I'd ever had to tolerate, with a particularly irritating note, most of which seemed to come from the block rather than the exhaust. Much worse than the 6 (machines and compressors), 8V...

Google Ultimate Cranker for one of many electric sailboat winch handles. I have no connection or interest - it's just the first one I came across, knowing they are out there. A bit pricey, but so are 3-sheave mid-size blocks with ball bearing sheaves.

I haven't done it on hollow FRP structures, but would it be possible to glass in compression tubes, flush at the top and bottom, allowing long rods to pass through them and tighten without crushing the structure?

I didn't see this mentioned (sorry if I missed it), but there are two C-Dory 22's - the Angler, and the Cruiser. And obviously, the Angler has the same hull, but shorter cabin and therefore larger cockpit. Enough cabin to get out of the rain and use the head, but small otherwise. I was...

If it were me, I'd stake the exposed threads and wait until haul-out. You can probably stake them with sharp vice grips just by squeezing, so you're not shocking the castings or disturbing the corrosion that's already locking the nut onto the shaft.

We have Chubb for homeowners and cars. Both boys have totalled cars when they were young, and Chubb just cut a check for, I believe, agreed value. Absolutely no hassle, and none of the horror stories of other companies. BUT, they're not cheap policies. Chubb has an excellent reputation, but...

Mine sounds like my head is inside a TV set from the 1950's - a sort of cacophony of high pitched electronic oscillator noises that never goes away. Not entirely unlike some of the sounds emanating from a desk top computer. Started as a kid when I had the worst cold or flu I've ever had...

I had a similar problem with a trailer sailboat with molded hatch opening. The soft, hollow rubber gasket looked fine, and closed tightly, but in reality, it was installed onto the hatch lid a little too far inboard of the opening. The coaming was rounded, and the gasket was just a bit inboard...

Maybe crack open the raw water pump and take a peek at the direction of the rubber vanes?

Little Yanmar sailboat auxiliaries. No drain plug. At least, none that I ever found.

Oops. I deleted my post. Thought it was too much war story, not enough objectivity. But I was responding to this . . . . . . and concluded that I thought they were tested in mud. Performance at 32 deg. was almost exactly the same as the Danforth, but significantly improved at 45 deg, which...

I use a hand-pumped vacuum sucker through the dip stick tube, and now I'm wondering if I could just punch a hole in the horizontal filter, which never seems to drain down on its own, and pull the oil out with the skinniest of my flex tube selection before spinning it off. I hate wasting a bunch...

How do you know the tank is still half full? Can you see the level through the holding tank walls? I've fought with level senders in the past, as they tend to get sticky in a holding tank, and end up showing contents when there isn't. At least, mine have. As to the vent, if it can pump...

What a shame. The single-engine M350/390's are second from the top of my short list, behind the M400, but it's too early in the process to actually pull the trigger, and shipping a 14+ ft beam boat 1600 miles to Lake Ontario won't be easy, I wouldn't think.

The mixing/diverting valve would normally be a 3-way valve, which in your sketch, would replace the bottom tee in figure 1. It would be plumbed to direct flow through the bypass (vertical) leg so the keel cooler gets no flow until the valve's set temperature is reached, at which point it starts...

The CSY 44 Pilothouse Ketch is, or was, my dream retirement boat, but the admiral has had enough sailing. Which is why I'm here now, researching trawlers. :thumb:

And in addition to that, there are two basic types of ball valve. So-called standard port, and full port. Standard port ball valves have a considerably smaller port through the ball, while full port valves do not restrict the flow, at least not any more than any full-bore straight fitting...

The jumper between A+ and B- means that A+ is at the same potential as B-, so it's tantamount to measuring the voltage difference between B- and B+, which is 6V. Edit: Too slow.

Liquid propane expands about 270:1 when it vaporizes, so a leak will simply push the gas out through the vent hose regardless of it's relative density, and that pressure would be miniscule unless the hose is clogged. Having the drain on the bottom would help if air leaks in and/or when the lid...

Top one is an L6-50, 250V, single-phase, 2-pole, 3-wire. An odd duck, though. Not NEMA, I don't think. The other is probably 277, 480, or 600V single-phase, 2-pole, 3-wire. Edit: Could also be 250V 15A. Those slots look big compared to the diameter of the body, suggesting it's a small...

How does that work if you're plugging into GFCI protected 30A 120V receptacles? Or does it not, due to unbalanced neutral to hot current in each of the two receptacles?

And thanks to that tip, it's now on my list, too. The 'Europa' style in general really rings my bell, though I much prefer a low hp single engine, and that doesn't seem as common as twins.

Probably because engine coolant runs around 200F [93C], which is the same neighborhood as the engine oil, but hydraulic systems normally run around 140F [60C], give or take, and we try to keep continuous-duty gear reducers at or below that temperature range. We used to design for oil-to-air...