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This is what I am working on now. I am pretty sure we are going to find heavily diesel fuel diluted oil and perhaps some blockage. The pump has been checked and is perfect. I had stuck #2 rings on 3 pistons and also the #6 valve springs are coated with carbon which would seem to indicated...

I will definitely send out a sample but I am not sure where. I figured there would be a local place but have not found anything. Where do people usually send these? I did the smell test on the oil and all I can say is that it just smells burnt. It does seem thin unfortunatly though so I...

I could spin it easily so hopefully you are correct. ...... Afraid to go down that road too far for fear of finding owner neglect at the other end of it. But actually, yesterday I measured the oil I drained from the engine before taking it out and it comes up to 10 quarts. This does not...

I got a quote for $2800. How is that for a few months inflation? "Has to be ordered from Europe". Thankfully it does not look like I'll need a new crank.

So for what its worth I talked to both AD and Bomac marine about the crank. Both assured me that these crankshafts can take a significant amount of grinding. Bomac in fact used rather colorful language when I referred to the specially hardened "heat treat zone" on the journal. He said...

I wonder if anyone made recordings?

Well you were exactly right Ski in NC. The holes got clogged up with melted metal. I put a long rod diagonally from the adjacent main journal and tapped gentle and out came a molten plug. But now I am wondering if the "scoring" i see on the journal is actually the smeared molten metal from...

All of the other bearings appear perfect. Another question - why is it that these two center crankpins/pin journals (?) do not have oil holes like all of the others?

The journals are 2 1/2 inches in diameter. I don't know what the minimum specifications are but it would seem there is enough material there to grind and still maintain enough strength. I guess that is a wild guess though. How does one find the minimum specification for these anyway...

Ok. Well here it is. It looks to me like I have problems with the journals and bearings on cylinders 3,4 and 5. I noticed when I opened the crankcase the piston counterweights on 3,4 and 5 were dry compared to 1,2 and 6. Another interesting thing is when I loosened the bolts on 5 it...

Well here is the bolt. (I did not include pictures of the wound on my forehead and scraped shin from getting this thing off. I can't believe how much force it took). Next I'll need a pulley puller I guess. One interesting thing is as I attempted to remove the bolt, even with all that force...

Well I went out and tried both ways and no luck. I don't think its reversed thread. This is one part of the engine which does not seem to appear in my manual As for this After moving the engine to the aft deck I had the boat yard lift it and put it on a trailer. It took them 20 mins...

Well the engine is out of the boat and into my garage. I've opened it up and turned if over and still no sign of damage (at least to my untrained eye). I thought before looking at all the various bearings I'd open the timing cover and take a look at the timing gear. The problem is how to...

It squeezed out the door pretty well. The only things I removed were To reduce weight and for inspection/diagnostics: Flywheel Exhaust manifold Head To reduce width: Engine mounts CrankCase Vent tube/Cap Oil Filter and other minor things I did not remove the fuel injector pump. With these...

Here are a few photos for the engine removal process in case anyone is curious. It turned out to be an easier process than expected after getting our support built. We also supported the cabin sole from underneath down to the stringers but I actually don't think we needed to do that as we...

I was wondering what is the importance of this? Shouldn't all the rods be identical? Thanks

egads!! I hope your wrong about that. I'll take a closer look this evening.

Well since I could not find any problems with the damper plate or starter which may have prevented the engine from turning over I returned to the brute force method and finally got the engine to budge (to turn over). I did so by hitting a few of the pistons with a rubber mallet and then...

I'll check this evening. But why would a starter problem prevent me from manually turning over the engine with a wrench? The starter is definitely engaging but the engine is not moving.

Well the saga continues. Thanks to advice received here I managed to remove the transmission however I do not see anything obviously wrong with the damper plate. I have attached a few images and a shareable link with others if anyone wants to take a look. I guess my next step is to...

Well I got down to the boat and realized I had no clue about how to remove the transmission for an inspection of the damper plate. How would I go about "sliding" it back". I imagine it would have to be unbolted from both the engin and the prop shaft for any sliding to take place. I think...

Loonies? What are Loonies? Also Industrial engines?

I actually had two mechanics look at it. One said it may run forever as is. The other said I should deal with it immediately.

I think (hope) the rust on #4 is a result of my inexperience and some procedural mistakes. I had not fully drained the coolant prior to loosening the head bolts. I was reminded of this as soon as I noticed water in places it should not be. I then waited a week.......... As for the cummins...

Well - I finally have the necessity for further exploration of my "bad cylinder" problem. One fine evening a couple of weeks back while leaving the harbor my engine seized. At least thats what appears to have happened. I have removed my head expecting to find either a damaged #6...